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«Un paseo por Ginebra», de Joël Dicker

Del casco antiguo al Jardin Anglais pasando por la ribera del lago Lemán, Joël Dicker nos descubre otra cara de su ciudad natal en este texto publicado como complemento a su novela «El enigma de la habitación 622». A pesar de ser la cuna de la relojería, Dicker ofrece un retrato finísimo -una maravillosa guía de viaje alternativa- de un lugar en el que el tiempo parece haberse detenido.
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una imagen de Ginebra que siempre <a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/6523-joel-dicker?gclid=Cj0KCQiAk4aOBhCTARIsAFWFP9EpkG0GFK8pSPpdfpM2Yxk64_le35ZWxMkYDk0Db39CJAqu659ZVWUaAtmEEALw_wcB\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">me acompa\u00f1a<\/a>: la que ofrece la ciudad al aterrizar en el aeropuerto de Cointrin. Primero, se sobrevuela el lago, las aguas de esmeralda, \u00fanicas e inconfundibles. El color del Lem\u00e1n, visto desde el cielo, a veces da la sensaci\u00f3n de que se est\u00e1 llegando al Caribe. En realidad estamos en Suiza, otra forma de para\u00edso.<\/p><p>\u00bfQu\u00e9 le da a Ginebra ese ambiente tan agradable? Yo dir\u00eda que se trata, sobre todo, de un sentimiento de serenidad, una sensaci\u00f3n de paz. De estar en paz. Ese es el estado de \u00e1nimo que se apodera del paseante que camina por la ciudad. \u00bfPor qu\u00e9? Por una parte, porque Ginebra es una ciudad peque\u00f1a que nunca va a crecer m\u00e1s: no se puede expandir porque la rodean las fronteras pol\u00edticas con Francia y porque el lago se adentra en el centro urbano antes de convertirse en el r\u00edo R\u00f3dano, que llega hasta Marsella. Uno se puede ir de Ginebra con la certeza de que, cuando vuelva, se la encontrar\u00e1 tal y como la dej\u00f3. 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He hablado antes del lago Lem\u00e1n; tambi\u00e9n cabe mencionar las monta\u00f1as que lo rodean: el macizo del Jura, el Sal\u00e8ve y la cordillera de los Alpes son las formaciones monta\u00f1osas que delimitan por siempre jam\u00e1s el horizonte de los ginebrinos, velan sobre la ciudad desde hace milenios y seguir\u00e1n estando ah\u00ed, en el mismo lugar, dentro de miles de 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car\u00e1cter inmutable de Ginebra forma parte de la vida cotidiana. El estilo arquitect\u00f3nico, los edificios antiguos de altura limitada, todo se une para recordarnos lo poco que ha cambiado la ciudad con el paso del tiempo. Y las fotograf\u00edas de \u00e9poca no hacen sino confirmarlo.\u00a0<\/p><p>Nuestro paseo empieza en el H\u00f4tel des Bergues, cuyo majestuoso edificio de piedra resulta inconfundible. Se trata del hotel de lujo m\u00e1s antiguo de Ginebra, que se inaugur\u00f3 a mediados del siglo xix. Domina el lago Lem\u00e1n y el R\u00f3dano, y la azotea ofrece una de las mejores vistas de Ginebra. Se construy\u00f3 junto a uno de los extremos del puente del Mont-Blanc, un punto estrat\u00e9gico de la ciudad que une la margen derecha con la izquierda.<\/p><p><br \/><strong>Bajo la mirada del Mont-Blanc<\/strong><\/p><p>El paseo, rumbo al centro de la ciudad, sigue cruzando ese mismo puente, donde podemos aprovechar para extasiarnos con la rada de Ginebra y quiz\u00e1 tambi\u00e9n, si el tiempo acompa\u00f1a, con el macizo del Mont-Blanc, como un tel\u00f3n de fondo que se alza sobre Europa hasta los 4.810 metros de altitud.<\/p><p>Tras cruzar el puente, nos dirigimos al Jardin Anglais, conocido en Ginebra y en el mundo entero por su reloj de flores. Se llama as\u00ed porque cuando se inaugur\u00f3, en 1854, era el \u00fanico parque ajardinado de estilo ingl\u00e9s que hab\u00eda en la ciudad. Lo cruzamos para llegar al muelle de Gustave-Ador, que bordea el Lem\u00e1n. A unos pasos de all\u00ed, en la punta de un espig\u00f3n, se puede contemplar el Jet d'Eau de Ginebra, el surtidor cuyo penacho de 140 metros de altura es emblema de la ciudad. Hist\u00f3ricamente, data de finales del siglo xix. Por entonces estaba situado en el R\u00f3dano, a la altura del barrio de La Coulouvreni\u00e8re,\u00a0<\/p><p>donde los artesanos ginebrinos utilizaban la fuerza hidr\u00e1ulica como fuente de energ\u00eda para su maquinaria; por la noche, cuando cesaba la actividad, para evitar el riesgo de un exceso de presi\u00f3n, se activaba una v\u00e1lvula de seguridad que impulsaba el agua hacia el cielo. Ese fue el primer Jet d'Eau, que pas\u00f3 a formar parte del paisaje de la ciudad hasta tal punto que los pol\u00edticos municipales, conscientes de que se trataba de una de las grandes atracciones tur\u00edsticas de Ginebra, decidieron crear otro, artificial, en su actual emplazamiento del muelle de Gustave-Ador. Este muelle se encuentra en el barrio de Les Eaux-Vives, uno de los m\u00e1s bulliciosos de la ciudad. A los paseantes les encanta ir por la orilla del lago en cualquier estaci\u00f3n del a\u00f1o, pero acuden en tropel en los meses de verano, cuando los ba\u00f1istas disfrutan refresc\u00e1ndose en el Lem\u00e1n, sobre todo gracias a una playa de reciente creaci\u00f3n. Volviendo al muelle de Gustave-Ador, al paseante le compensa dar un rodeo para ver los dos magn\u00edficos parques que hay enfrente del lago: el de Les Eaux-Vives y el de La Grange. Estas dos zonas verdes, excepcionalmente arboladas, constituyen dos puntos de encuentro importantes en Ginebra, en particular los dos escenarios del parque de La Grange, que en verano acogen obras de teatro y conciertos al aire libre.<\/p><p>Ginebra tiene un clima templado, con inviernos relativamente fr\u00edos y veranos muy agradables. Los ginebrinos no dudan en atribuirle dos caras a su ciudad: en invierno, cuando soplan los vientos fr\u00edos y el cielo permanece nublado porque las monta\u00f1as bloquean las nubes, las calles parecen grises y desiertas, y los lugare\u00f1os, esquivos; en cambio, en cuanto vuelve el buen tiempo, toman por asalto terrazas y parques, mientras proliferan los conciertos y las proyecciones de cine al aire libre.<\/p><p><br \/><strong>De Rive a la orilla izquierda de Ginebra<\/strong><\/p><p>Seguimos el paseo a trav\u00e9s del barrio de Les Eaux-Vives, rumbo al de Rond-Point de-Rive. Se puede seguir la calle de Les Eaux-Vives, una de las arterias m\u00e1s importantes, y vagabundear mirando escaparates, o se puede optar por las callejuelas, no menos bulliciosas. Aqu\u00ed abundan los restaurantes y los bares de moda. La calle de Henri-Blavet, concretamente, suele estar abarrotada de gente por las noches.<\/p><p>Este barrio popular tan agradable de Les Eaux-Vives es donde se instala Lev Levovitch, uno de los protagonistas de mi \u00faltima novela, El enigma de la habitaci\u00f3n 622, cuando se muda a Ginebra. Tambi\u00e9n es el barrio donde vive Arma, la asistenta de Macaire y Anastasia Ebezner.<\/p><p>Rive fue en otros tiempos una de las puertas de la ciudad, construida en un terreno desecado del Lem\u00e1n. En la actualidad es una glorieta importante de Ginebra y una zona de paso muy transitada. All\u00ed se encuentra la Halle de Rive, el mercado cubierto de la ciudad, adem\u00e1s del Caf\u00e9 L\u00e9o y el Roberto, dos restaurantes que son toda una instituci\u00f3n. Desde Rive, continuamos el paseo por el bulevar de \u00c9mile-Jacques Dalcroze hasta el cruce con la calle Th\u00e9odore-de-B\u00e8ze, que nos lleva hasta lo alto de la colina del casco antiguo. Este itinerario nos permite pasar por delante del Coll\u00e8ge Calvin, que adem\u00e1s de ser un instituto p\u00fablico de Ginebra es el centro educativo m\u00e1s antiguo de la ciudad, fundado en 1559 por Juan Calvino, uno de los padres de la reforma protestante.<\/p><p>La calle Th\u00e9odore-de-B\u00e8ze enlaza con el paseo de Saint-Antoine, que marca la separaci\u00f3n entre el casco antiguo y el barrio de Les Tranch\u00e9es. Antes de entrar en el coraz\u00f3n hist\u00f3rico de Ginebra, vamos a recorrer brevemente el barrio de Les Tranch\u00e9es, que hasta el siglo xix era una de las zanjas defensivas de la ciudad vieja. En la actualidad es uno de esos bonitos barrios de la margen izquierda, donde abundan los elegantes hotelitos particulares y que preside la iglesia rusa de Ginebra, con sus c\u00fapulas cubiertas de pan de oro. En este barrio se encuentra el Museo de Arte e Historia, cuyas colecciones (en particular la de pintura suiza) justifican dar este rodeo.<\/p><p><strong><br \/>El coraz\u00f3n del casco antiguo<\/strong><\/p><p>Partiendo del museo y cruzando de nuevo el paseo de Saint-Antoine, se llega al casco antiguo. De inmediato la arquitectura de los edificios cambia y nos metemos de lleno en la Ginebra del siglo xvii. Delante se abre la plaza de Le Bourg-de-Four, que se considera uno de los puntos centrales de la ciudad. Varios caf\u00e9s comparten una terraza inmensa, que en verano siempre est\u00e1 llena. Alrededor, encontramos edificios de \u00e9poca que albergan locales comerciales y, sobre todo, el Palacio de Justicia. Es una gozada deambular por las callejuelas adoquinadas y descubrir todo el encanto local. La calle del H\u00f4tel-de-Ville nos conduce a varios edificios emblem\u00e1ticos: la catedral protestante de San Pedro; el antiguo arsenal, delante del cual hay expuestos varios ca\u00f1ones por los que trepan los ni\u00f1os; el ayuntamiento, que destaca por ser la sede parlamentaria del cant\u00f3n de Ginebra. Podemos estirar el recorrido subiendo hasta el paseo de La Treille, una esplanada situada encima de lo que antes eran las murallas de la ciudad vieja. All\u00ed se encuentra el banco corrido m\u00e1s largo del mundo (120,21 metros de longitud). Al bajar llegamos a la plaza de Neuve, que anta\u00f1o fue una de las puertas de Ginebra. Desde all\u00ed se puede contemplar la colina del casco antiguo, resguardada por los \u00faltimos vestigios de las famosas murallas. La plaza de Neuve se considera uno de los puntos neur\u00e1lgicos de la cultura ginebrina, pues all\u00ed se juntan el Grand Th\u00e9\u00e2tre (el teatro de la \u00f3pera de Ginebra, que se construy\u00f3 con el Palais Garnier de Par\u00eds como modelo), el Conservatorio de M\u00fasica y el Museo Rath (construido entre 1819 y 1826), dedicado a las bellas artes, que fue el primer museo p\u00fablico de Suiza. La plaza de Neuve linda con el parque de Les Bastions, que tanto gusta a los paseantes y donde se encuentra el edificio hist\u00f3rico de la universidad de Ginebra.<\/p><p>Desde la plaza de Neuve, la calle de La Corraterie nos lleva hasta la plaza de Bel-Air. Luego podemos ir siguiendo el curso del R\u00f3dano hasta el puente de Les Bergues, que permite cruzar a la margen derecha pasando por delante de la isla Rousseau, peque\u00f1a pero muy bonita. Al otro extremo del puente de Les Bergues volvemos al H\u00f4tel des Bergues, exactamente al mismo punto donde iniciamos el paseo.<br \/><br \/><br \/><strong>OTROS CONTENIDOS DE INTER\u00c9S:<\/strong><\/p><ul><li><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/ficciones\/Bernardo-Atxaga-Hotel-Fontainebleau-Miami\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">\u00abHotel Fontainebleau, Miami\u00bb, de Bernardo Atxaga<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/ficciones\/Alice-Munro-El-perdon-en-las-familias-Algo-que-queria-contarte\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">\u00abEl perd\u00f3n en las familias\u00bb, un relato original de Alice Munro<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/ficciones\/elena-garro-cuento-inedito-el-gato\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Lecturas breves: \u00abEl gato\u00bb, un cuento in\u00e9dito de Elena 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10 minutos

Crédito: Getty Images.

Hay una imagen de Ginebra que siempre me acompaña: la que ofrece la ciudad al aterrizar en el aeropuerto de Cointrin. Primero, se sobrevuela el lago, las aguas de esmeralda, únicas e inconfundibles. El color del Lemán, visto desde el cielo, a veces da la sensación de que se está llegando al Caribe. En realidad estamos en Suiza, otra forma de paraíso.

¿Qué le da a Ginebra ese ambiente tan agradable? Yo diría que se trata, sobre todo, de un sentimiento de serenidad, una sensación de paz. De estar en paz. Ese es el estado de ánimo que se apodera del paseante que camina por la ciudad. ¿Por qué? Por una parte, porque Ginebra es una ciudad pequeña que nunca va a crecer más: no se puede expandir porque la rodean las fronteras políticas con Francia y porque el lago se adentra en el centro urbano antes de convertirse en el río Ródano, que llega hasta Marsella. Uno se puede ir de Ginebra con la certeza de que, cuando vuelva, se la encontrará tal y como la dejó. A eso se debe, sin duda, que sea una ciudad tan apacible. Se tiene la impresión de que el tiempo se para un poco o, al menos, de que no avanza tan rápido como en cualquier otro sitio. A esto hay que añadir los elementos naturales que la personifican. He hablado antes del lago Lemán; también cabe mencionar las montañas que lo rodean: el macizo del Jura, el Salève y la cordillera de los Alpes son las formaciones montañosas que delimitan por siempre jamás el horizonte de los ginebrinos, velan sobre la ciudad desde hace milenios y seguirán estando ahí, en el mismo lugar, dentro de miles de años.

El carácter inmutable de Ginebra forma parte de la vida cotidiana. El estilo arquitectónico, los edificios antiguos de altura limitada, todo se une para recordarnos lo poco que ha cambiado la ciudad con el paso del tiempo. Y las fotografías de época no hacen sino confirmarlo. 

Nuestro paseo empieza en el Hôtel des Bergues, cuyo majestuoso edificio de piedra resulta inconfundible. Se trata del hotel de lujo más antiguo de Ginebra, que se inauguró a mediados del siglo xix. Domina el lago Lemán y el Ródano, y la azotea ofrece una de las mejores vistas de Ginebra. Se construyó junto a uno de los extremos del puente del Mont-Blanc, un punto estratégico de la ciudad que une la margen derecha con la izquierda.


Bajo la mirada del Mont-Blanc

El paseo, rumbo al centro de la ciudad, sigue cruzando ese mismo puente, donde podemos aprovechar para extasiarnos con la rada de Ginebra y quizá también, si el tiempo acompaña, con el macizo del Mont-Blanc, como un telón de fondo que se alza sobre Europa hasta los 4.810 metros de altitud.

Tras cruzar el puente, nos dirigimos al Jardin Anglais, conocido en Ginebra y en el mundo entero por su reloj de flores. Se llama así porque cuando se inauguró, en 1854, era el único parque ajardinado de estilo inglés que había en la ciudad. Lo cruzamos para llegar al muelle de Gustave-Ador, que bordea el Lemán. A unos pasos de allí, en la punta de un espigón, se puede contemplar el Jet d'Eau de Ginebra, el surtidor cuyo penacho de 140 metros de altura es emblema de la ciudad. Históricamente, data de finales del siglo xix. Por entonces estaba situado en el Ródano, a la altura del barrio de La Coulouvrenière, 

donde los artesanos ginebrinos utilizaban la fuerza hidráulica como fuente de energía para su maquinaria; por la noche, cuando cesaba la actividad, para evitar el riesgo de un exceso de presión, se activaba una válvula de seguridad que impulsaba el agua hacia el cielo. Ese fue el primer Jet d'Eau, que pasó a formar parte del paisaje de la ciudad hasta tal punto que los políticos municipales, conscientes de que se trataba de una de las grandes atracciones turísticas de Ginebra, decidieron crear otro, artificial, en su actual emplazamiento del muelle de Gustave-Ador. Este muelle se encuentra en el barrio de Les Eaux-Vives, uno de los más bulliciosos de la ciudad. A los paseantes les encanta ir por la orilla del lago en cualquier estación del año, pero acuden en tropel en los meses de verano, cuando los bañistas disfrutan refrescándose en el Lemán, sobre todo gracias a una playa de reciente creación. Volviendo al muelle de Gustave-Ador, al paseante le compensa dar un rodeo para ver los dos magníficos parques que hay enfrente del lago: el de Les Eaux-Vives y el de La Grange. Estas dos zonas verdes, excepcionalmente arboladas, constituyen dos puntos de encuentro importantes en Ginebra, en particular los dos escenarios del parque de La Grange, que en verano acogen obras de teatro y conciertos al aire libre.

Ginebra tiene un clima templado, con inviernos relativamente fríos y veranos muy agradables. Los ginebrinos no dudan en atribuirle dos caras a su ciudad: en invierno, cuando soplan los vientos fríos y el cielo permanece nublado porque las montañas bloquean las nubes, las calles parecen grises y desiertas, y los lugareños, esquivos; en cambio, en cuanto vuelve el buen tiempo, toman por asalto terrazas y parques, mientras proliferan los conciertos y las proyecciones de cine al aire libre.


De Rive a la orilla izquierda de Ginebra

Seguimos el paseo a través del barrio de Les Eaux-Vives, rumbo al de Rond-Point de-Rive. Se puede seguir la calle de Les Eaux-Vives, una de las arterias más importantes, y vagabundear mirando escaparates, o se puede optar por las callejuelas, no menos bulliciosas. Aquí abundan los restaurantes y los bares de moda. La calle de Henri-Blavet, concretamente, suele estar abarrotada de gente por las noches.

Este barrio popular tan agradable de Les Eaux-Vives es donde se instala Lev Levovitch, uno de los protagonistas de mi última novela, El enigma de la habitación 622, cuando se muda a Ginebra. También es el barrio donde vive Arma, la asistenta de Macaire y Anastasia Ebezner.

Rive fue en otros tiempos una de las puertas de la ciudad, construida en un terreno desecado del Lemán. En la actualidad es una glorieta importante de Ginebra y una zona de paso muy transitada. Allí se encuentra la Halle de Rive, el mercado cubierto de la ciudad, además del Café Léo y el Roberto, dos restaurantes que son toda una institución. Desde Rive, continuamos el paseo por el bulevar de Émile-Jacques Dalcroze hasta el cruce con la calle Théodore-de-Bèze, que nos lleva hasta lo alto de la colina del casco antiguo. Este itinerario nos permite pasar por delante del Collège Calvin, que además de ser un instituto público de Ginebra es el centro educativo más antiguo de la ciudad, fundado en 1559 por Juan Calvino, uno de los padres de la reforma protestante.

La calle Théodore-de-Bèze enlaza con el paseo de Saint-Antoine, que marca la separación entre el casco antiguo y el barrio de Les Tranchées. Antes de entrar en el corazón histórico de Ginebra, vamos a recorrer brevemente el barrio de Les Tranchées, que hasta el siglo xix era una de las zanjas defensivas de la ciudad vieja. En la actualidad es uno de esos bonitos barrios de la margen izquierda, donde abundan los elegantes hotelitos particulares y que preside la iglesia rusa de Ginebra, con sus cúpulas cubiertas de pan de oro. En este barrio se encuentra el Museo de Arte e Historia, cuyas colecciones (en particular la de pintura suiza) justifican dar este rodeo.


El corazón del casco antiguo

Partiendo del museo y cruzando de nuevo el paseo de Saint-Antoine, se llega al casco antiguo. De inmediato la arquitectura de los edificios cambia y nos metemos de lleno en la Ginebra del siglo xvii. Delante se abre la plaza de Le Bourg-de-Four, que se considera uno de los puntos centrales de la ciudad. Varios cafés comparten una terraza inmensa, que en verano siempre está llena. Alrededor, encontramos edificios de época que albergan locales comerciales y, sobre todo, el Palacio de Justicia. Es una gozada deambular por las callejuelas adoquinadas y descubrir todo el encanto local. La calle del Hôtel-de-Ville nos conduce a varios edificios emblemáticos: la catedral protestante de San Pedro; el antiguo arsenal, delante del cual hay expuestos varios cañones por los que trepan los niños; el ayuntamiento, que destaca por ser la sede parlamentaria del cantón de Ginebra. Podemos estirar el recorrido subiendo hasta el paseo de La Treille, una esplanada situada encima de lo que antes eran las murallas de la ciudad vieja. Allí se encuentra el banco corrido más largo del mundo (120,21 metros de longitud). Al bajar llegamos a la plaza de Neuve, que antaño fue una de las puertas de Ginebra. Desde allí se puede contemplar la colina del casco antiguo, resguardada por los últimos vestigios de las famosas murallas. La plaza de Neuve se considera uno de los puntos neurálgicos de la cultura ginebrina, pues allí se juntan el Grand Théâtre (el teatro de la ópera de Ginebra, que se construyó con el Palais Garnier de París como modelo), el Conservatorio de Música y el Museo Rath (construido entre 1819 y 1826), dedicado a las bellas artes, que fue el primer museo público de Suiza. La plaza de Neuve linda con el parque de Les Bastions, que tanto gusta a los paseantes y donde se encuentra el edificio histórico de la universidad de Ginebra.

Desde la plaza de Neuve, la calle de La Corraterie nos lleva hasta la plaza de Bel-Air. Luego podemos ir siguiendo el curso del Ródano hasta el puente de Les Bergues, que permite cruzar a la margen derecha pasando por delante de la isla Rousseau, pequeña pero muy bonita. Al otro extremo del puente de Les Bergues volvemos al Hôtel des Bergues, exactamente al mismo punto donde iniciamos el paseo.


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