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La Boca y La Bombonera, un destino y un mito: tango, fútbol y choripán

Apenas unas semanas después del pitido final del Mundial de Qatar, exponente máximo del llamado fútbol negocio, un evento corrompido por las manos que más dinero mecen, ha regresado el espectáculo de la Champions League, el torneo donde se citan los equipos más importantes del planeta. Las gradas de los campos europeos, antaño hervideros de hormigón y metal, son hoy una sucesión de palcos VIP, butacas con calefacción y turistas, muchos de ellos más pendientes del «selfie» que del juego (que para eso se han dejado unos cuantos euros en su localidad). El fútbol tal y como lo conocíamos ha perdido su identidad, si bien es cierto que aún quedan pequeños rincones (como la valerosa aldea de Astérix el Galo) que resisten las embestidas que imponen marcas, patrocinadores y partes interesadas en comerse el pedazo más grande y jugoso del pastel. La Bombonera, la cancha del Boca Juniors, y el estadio Mohamed V, hogar del Raja Casablanca, son dos de esos últimos reductos que todavía combaten contra la modernidad. En las siguientes líneas, un capítulo íntegro del libro «Invasión de campo» (Ediciones B), «un manifiesto contra el fútbol como negocio y en defensa del aficionado», viajamos con el periodista Alejandro Requeijo a las gradas de dos estadios que aún huelen a comida barata, a nervios, sudor, sangre y, sobre todo, a fútbol y a pasión.

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Las gradas de los campos europeos, anta\u00f1o hervideros de hormig\u00f3n y metal, son hoy una sucesi\u00f3n de palcos VIP, butacas con calefacci\u00f3n y turistas, muchos de ellos m\u00e1s pendientes del \u00abselfie\u00bb que del juego (que para eso se han dejado unos cuantos euros en su localidad). El f\u00fatbol tal y como lo conoc\u00edamos ha perdido su identidad, si bien es cierto que a\u00fan quedan peque\u00f1os rincones (como la valerosa aldea de Ast\u00e9rix el Galo) que resisten las embestidas que imponen marcas, patrocinadores y partes interesadas en comerse el pedazo m\u00e1s grande y jugoso del pastel. La Bombonera, la cancha del Boca Juniors, y el estadio Mohamed V, hogar del Raja Casablanca, son dos de esos \u00faltimos reductos que todav\u00eda combaten contra la modernidad. En las siguientes l\u00edneas, un cap\u00edtulo \u00edntegro del libro \u00abInvasi\u00f3n de campo\u00bb (Ediciones B), \u00abun manifiesto contra el f\u00fatbol como negocio y en defensa del aficionado\u00bb, viajamos con el periodista Alejandro Requeijo a las gradas de dos estadios que a\u00fan huelen a comida barata, a nervios, sudor, sangre y, sobre todo, a f\u00fatbol y a pasi\u00f3n.<\/p>","full_content":"","content":"[{\"id\":\"e5paxiq\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_layout\":\"\",\"stretch_section\":\"\",\"layout\":\"boxed\",\"content_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"gap\":\"default\",\"height\":\"default\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":400},\"column_position\":\"middle\",\"content_position\":\"\",\"structure\":\"10\",\"section_background\":\"\",\"background_background\":\"\",\"background_color\":\"\",\"background_color_stop\":{\"unit\":\"%\",\"size\":0},\"background_color_b\":\"\",\"background_color_b_stop\":{\"unit\":\"%\",\"size\":100},\"background_gradient_type\":\"linear\",\"background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":180},\"background_gradient_position\":\"center 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Un hincha de Diego Maradona levanta el pu\u00f1o en lo alto de las gradas del estadio Alberto J. Armando antes de un partido entre Boca Juniors y Newell's Old Boys como parte de la Copa Diego Maradona, la antigua Copa de la Liga Profesional de F\u00fatbol de AFA. 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detuve en una p\u00e1gina web a la que me llev\u00f3 mi algoritmo, que nunca desperdicia la oportunidad de demostrar lo perdido que est\u00e1 respecto a mis gustos. Quiz\u00e1 fue porque la imagen de la cosa era \u00c9ric Cantona, alguien que tras dejar el f\u00fatbol protagoniz\u00f3 \u2014interpret\u00e1ndose a s\u00ed mismo\u2014 una de las pel\u00edculas m\u00e1s esperanzadoras de <a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.filmaffinity.com\/es\/film121781.html\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\"><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\">la obra del genial Ken Loach <em>(Buscando a \u00c9ric,<\/em> 2009)<\/span>. <\/a>El delantero franc\u00e9s que rein\u00f3 en Old Trafford con su personalidad apabullante aparec\u00eda en aquella web en su versi\u00f3n actual, sin el cuello de su camiseta roja del United levantado, sino con barba descuidada y pasado de kilos. Anunciaba una extra\u00f1a agencia de viajes futbolera que ofrec\u00eda vivir la experiencia de presenciar un partido en alguno de los principales estadios del planeta. La propuesta va m\u00e1s all\u00e1 de conseguirte un sitio en el campo, es algo m\u00e1s ambiciosa. El paquete incluye alojamiento y una serie de actividades en la ciudad relacionadas con el estadio y el equipo elegido. Se trata de un producto exclusivo, no ofrece un partido cualquiera, sino los m\u00e1s importantes del a\u00f1o. En Espa\u00f1a daban la opci\u00f3n de apuntarse en una lista de espera para vivir el cruce de Champions entre el Real Madrid y <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/messi-psg-clubes-estado\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">el PSG<\/a><\/span>. El plan inclu\u00eda una <em>masterclass<\/em> con un periodista de <em>El Pa\u00eds,<\/em> desayunar en el Rastro o ensayar c\u00e1nticos con la pe\u00f1a madridista Al Ataque. Meses despu\u00e9s, la misma web con Cantona a modo de reclamo ofrec\u00eda una visita al Camp Nou para presenciar un cl\u00e1sico, otra masterclass, en este caso con un agente de futbolistas, y una tarde de cervezas y canciones con la Penya Cinc Copes cul\u00e9. Todo por un m\u00f3dico precio de 1.425 d\u00f3lares de nada. Y eso sin incluir el desplazamiento, que corre a cuenta del cliente. Hay un apartado sobre respuestas a preguntas frecuentes de los usuarios. Una de ellas recomienda memorizar frases antes de acudir al destino en cuesti\u00f3n. En el caso de Barcelona, aconsejan apuntarse en alguna parte para no olvidarse que <em>\u00abtot el camp \u00e9s un clam\u00bb<\/em>. Si usted ha llegado hasta aqu\u00ed, querido lector, ya podr\u00e1 imaginar lo que pienso de que los clubes reserven una parte de sus estadios a explotar este tipo de negocios para turistas adinerados en detrimento de un aficionado tradicional. Para empezar, la consecuencia directa de que exista gente dispuesta a pagar m\u00e1s de 2.000 euros por un capricho de cuarenta y ocho horas es el encarecimiento de los abonos para el p\u00fablico general la temporada siguiente. 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lo que realmente me llam\u00f3 la atenci\u00f3n de la astracanada fue comprobar la lista de los estadios con los que trabaja esta agencia. Tambi\u00e9n est\u00e1n San Siro de Mil\u00e1n, Anfield de Liverpool, Old Trafford de M\u00e1nchester, el Parque de los Pr\u00edncipes de Par\u00eds o el Jos\u00e9 Alvalade de Lisboa. Hasta ah\u00ed, todo bastante previsible. Son las sedes de algunos de los equipos m\u00e1s medi\u00e1ticos del mundo en cuyas plantillas se encuentran las principales figuras del momento. Sin embargo, la oferta tambi\u00e9n inclu\u00eda dos destinos poco convencionales; <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/comic\/liniers-gustavo-sala-buenos-aires-en-pelotas\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">la Bombonera de Buenos Aires, la cancha de Boca Juniors<\/a><\/span>, y el estadio Mohamed V, el hogar del Raja de Casablanca, uno de los equipos m\u00e1s seguidos de Marruecos. Estaremos todos de acuerdo en que estos dos conjuntos no est\u00e1n en esta selecci\u00f3n por su estilo de juego ni por la calidad de sus futbolistas. Ni la Liga argentina ni la marroqu\u00ed se retransmiten en la mayor\u00eda de los pa\u00edses europeos. \u00bfCu\u00e1l es el atractivo entonces? Su propuesta no es disfrutar de un buen partido, algo nunca garantizado, sino adentrarse en una atm\u00f3sfera desconocida para un aficionado medio. Boca y Raja est\u00e1n ah\u00ed, compitiendo con Mbapp\u00e9, Salah, Benzema y Messi, porque sus estadios son diferentes. Ofrecen una experiencia incomparable a pesar de no tener aire acondicionado en sus butacas. Ni falta que les hace. Desplazarse todav\u00eda hoy a algunos campos fuera del circuito \u00aboficial\u00bb supone viajar casi en una m\u00e1quina del tiempo a escenarios todav\u00eda sin desnaturalizar y eso es exactamente lo que los hace atractivos por aut\u00e9nticos. Su activo es algo mucho m\u00e1s perdurable en el tiempo que la inversi\u00f3n puntual de una fortuna extranjera capaz de reunir a jugadores de moda con una carrera limitada. El respeto a la tradici\u00f3n, la observancia de los c\u00f3digos,\u00a0<span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/el-estadio-vacio\/juan-villoro\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">la ortodoxia de una liturgia imposible<\/a><\/span> de abarcar tambi\u00e9n es una inversi\u00f3n a largo plazo. Si todos los estadios acaban por ser iguales los unos a los otros, eso y otros muchos tesoros particulares moldeados con el tiempo se 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cancha de Boca es un viejo templo del f\u00fatbol mundial con nombre de gal\u00e1n de telenovela. Oficialmente se llama estadio Alberto Jos\u00e9 Armando, pero todos lo conocen como La Bombonera porque al arquitecto que ide\u00f3 el dise\u00f1o le regalaron una caja de bombones y cay\u00f3 en la cuenta del extraordinario parecido que ten\u00eda con su obra. Entre las calles del Doctor del Valle Iberlucea y Brandsen de Buenos Aires, preside desde hace ochenta a\u00f1os el coraz\u00f3n de La Boca, uno de esos barrios de la capital argentina a evitar cuando cae la noche. Ese lugar lo fundaron hace dos siglos emigrantes genoveses y en las aceras de sus calles sin alcantarillado se amontonaba la mierda, raz\u00f3n por la que a los hinchas de Boca les llaman bosteros. No es precisamente uno de esos estadios con comodidades. De hecho, buena parte de sus gradas no tienen ni butacas, todos de pie, api\u00f1ados, imponentes. Dif\u00edcilmente una infraestructura as\u00ed podr\u00eda albergar una gran final seg\u00fan los c\u00e1nones europeos. Ellos se lo pierden. <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/maradona-victor-hugo-morales-mundial-de-mexico\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">\u00abMuchos caudillos se cagaron en esta cancha\u00bb, dej\u00f3 dicho Maradona<\/a><\/span>. Sus alrededores huelen a chorip\u00e1n servido en asados callejeros y vino. Uno de los murales que decora sus fachadas dice as\u00ed: \u00abA los fundadores y a la gente, a los artistas y a los \u00eddolos, al tango y al f\u00fatbol, que hicieron de la Boca un destino y un mito\u00bb. La Bombonera es un lugar m\u00edstico que como otros estadios en Sudam\u00e9rica ha emprendido el camino de la europeizaci\u00f3n con remodelaciones en las que anuncian butacas m\u00e1s c\u00f3modas, palcos vip y nuevas opciones de explotaci\u00f3n del recinto que traer\u00e1n, dicen, mayores ingresos. River Plate inici\u00f3 el mismo camino con El Monumental, incluyendo un cambio en la distribuci\u00f3n del aforo y eliminando el color tradicional de las gradas, que era una franja roja cuidadosamente pintada sobre un fondo blanco en cada sector imitando la camiseta del equipo. Ahora ser\u00e1 todo gris hormig\u00f3n como el cielo nublado de Bruselas o el traje de un funcionario de la Ruman\u00eda de Ceausescu. Los hinchas protestaron y la dirigencia del club les contest\u00f3 as\u00ed: \u00abTodos estamos acostumbrados a ver el estadio con el color que nos caracteriz\u00f3 toda la vida, pero bueno, si uno mira hoy lo que est\u00e1 pasando en el mundo y uno mira a los entendidos cuando uno hace estas cosas no tiene que creerse que uno sabe todo. Hay que escuchar a los entendidos y los estadios m\u00e1s importantes del mundo est\u00e1n trabajando con colores oscuros\u00bb. Los entendidos. En lugar de poner en valor la identidad propia, esta se destruye para hacer lo mismo que est\u00e1n haciendo todos por recomendaci\u00f3n de unos presuntos entendidos que nadie sabe qui\u00e9nes son o cu\u00e1les son sus criterios. Maracan\u00e1, el coloso brasile\u00f1o, ya se lo cargaron para el Mundial de 2014 hasta despojarlo de la personalidad que lo hac\u00eda \u00fanico para convertirlo en un estadio m\u00e1s. Construido para el Mundial de 1950, Maracan\u00e1 lleg\u00f3 a contar con un aforo de 220.000 espectadores. Vivir un partido en esa cancha era presenciar una radiograf\u00eda de la sociedad carioca, con su clase media acomodada, los <em>arquibaldos,<\/em> copando la zona de las <em>arquibancadas.<\/em> Debajo de ellos estaban los <em>geraldinos<\/em> abarrotando la grada general, la m\u00e1s econ\u00f3mica. Poco o nada queda ya de eso. Alerta.\u00a0<span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/el-estadio-vacio\/Eduardo-Sacheri\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Los lugares sagrados acarrean siempre la condici\u00f3n de intocables<\/a><\/span> porque en cada piedra pueden haber sucedido cosas importantes. Basta visitar La Bombonera en compa\u00f1\u00eda de uno de sus feligreses para comprobar que en ese escenario abundan los objetos sacros. \u00abEn aquel arco fue donde Roma ataj\u00f3 el penal que defini\u00f3 el campeonato de 1962\u00bb. Da igual que esa porter\u00eda la hayan cambiado cien veces desde entonces porque siempre ser\u00e1 el arco donde el portero de Boca le par\u00f3 el penalti decisivo a River y la gente invadi\u00f3 el campo para festejarlo hace sesenta a\u00f1os. \u00abAll\u00e1 arriba se ubica La Doce [los seguidores m\u00e1s incondicionales]\u00bb. \u00abAquel es el palquito de Diego\u00bb, desde donde celebraba los goles de su equipo como un Che, tocado con su gorra verde oliva y su habano cubano. 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a\u00e9rea del barrio de La Boca y del estadio Alberto J. 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Armando, popularmente conocido como la Bombonera. 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center\",\"background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"background_position\":\"\",\"background_attachment\":\"\",\"background_repeat\":\"\",\"background_size\":\"\",\"background_video_link\":\"\",\"background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"border_border\":\"\",\"border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"border_color\":\"\",\"border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"section_typo\":\"\",\"heading_color\":\"\",\"color_text\":\"\",\"color_link\":\"\",\"color_link_hover\":\"\",\"text_align\":\"\",\"section_advanced\":\"\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"css_classes\":\"\",\"section_responsive\":\"\",\"screen_sm\":\"default\",\"screen_sm_width\":\"100\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"lo6zhfr\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>Ahora, algunos de estos vallados los han retirado en uno de esos retoques est\u00e9ticos que acaban por alterar la personalidad de una mirada. Todav\u00eda resiste alguna de esas vallas. Tiene sus hierros entrecruzados como los que delimitan cualquier potrero y acaban deformados de tanto recibir balonazos. Son como la alambrada por la que trepaba Vega, el luchador espa\u00f1ol del popular videojuego de los noventa <em>Street Fighter II.<\/em> Por definici\u00f3n, una alambrada es un s\u00edmbolo de separaci\u00f3n que convierte en sospechoso a quien se confina al otro lado. Pero hay vallados que el tiempo convirti\u00f3 en otra cosa. Me detuve en esta idea en un art\u00edculo para la <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/revistalibero.com\/\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">revista <em>L\u00edbero<\/em><\/a><\/span> tras la muerte de Maradona. Ni el \u00abPelusa\u00bb ni el uruguayo Sergio Daniel \u00abManteca\u00bb Mart\u00ednez eran cacos que estuvieran huyendo de nada cuando se encaramaron en esa verja, sino \u00eddolos que buscaban fundirse en un abrazo eterno con la gente. No se pod\u00eda subir cualquiera a ese alambrado. A nadie se le ocurrir\u00eda trepar por un gol intrascendente. Tampoco un reci\u00e9n llegado sin ser bendecido antes por la grada. Ese vallado es casi como un lienzo reservado a culminar las m\u00e1s bellas obras de arte dibujadas antes sobre el c\u00e9sped. Basta echar un vistazo a la imagen de Batistuta cuando la goleada a Racing de Avellaneda en el 91. <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.elgrafico.com.ar\/articulo\/1057\/14384\/1991-el-evangelio-de-la-red\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Inmortalizado por la c\u00e1mara de Luis Micou<\/a><\/span>, parece como un cristo del Renacimiento con dos compa\u00f1eros abrazados a sus pies en el papel de la Virgen Mar\u00eda y san Juan Evangelista. Uno de los \u00faltimos en realizar el ritual fue Carlos T\u00e9vez, el \u00abApache\u00bb, justo antes de la pandemia tras el gol que les dio el campeonato en 2019. Le sigui\u00f3 dos a\u00f1os despu\u00e9s el \u00abPipa\u00bb Benedetto para celebrar el gol de la victoria al eterno rival en el supercl\u00e1sico de 2022.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"ac2eho4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>Buena parte de sus gradas no tienen ni butacas, todos de pie, api\u00f1ados, imponentes. Dif\u00edcilmente una infraestructura as\u00ed podr\u00eda albergar una gran final seg\u00fan los c\u00e1nones europeos. Ellos se lo pierden. \u00abMuchos caudillos se cagaron en esta cancha\u00bb, dej\u00f3 dicho Maradona. Sus alrededores huelen a chorip\u00e1n servido en asados callejeros y vino. Uno de los murales que decora sus fachadas dice as\u00ed: \u00abA los fundadores y a la gente, a los artistas y a los \u00eddolos, al tango y al f\u00fatbol, que hicieron de la Boca un destino y un mito\u00bb.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#000000\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"40\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"24\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Vollkorn\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"45\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"30\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"95\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"95\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"30\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"30\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"zyqteeq\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>Pretendieron llevar a Madrid una parte de toda esa esencia cuando, en 2018, unos incidentes violentos impidieron a Boca y a River disputar en Buenos Aires la final de la Copa Libertadores de Am\u00e9rica, la m\u00e1xima competici\u00f3n de clubes en ese continente adonde el f\u00fatbol lleg\u00f3 antes que a Espa\u00f1a. <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Anexo:Final_de_la_Copa_Libertadores_2018\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">El supercl\u00e1sico del f\u00fatbol argentino es algo sencillamente inexportable fuera de su entorno<\/a><\/span>. No es un t\u00e1per con croquetas de tu madre que te puedas llevar a casa. Un Boca-River lejos de la Bombonera o el Monumental se muere. Es el marco en el que se desenvuelve esta historia, el atractivo de un partido que en lo futbol\u00edstico hace ya tiempo que perdi\u00f3 inter\u00e9s. En condiciones normales, ser\u00eda uno de esos encuentros que el relato \u00fanico del gusto europeo futbolero rechazar\u00eda por mediocre. Contemplar un Boca-River al resguardo de la comodidad de un estadio como el Bernab\u00e9u es como pretender conocer las pir\u00e1mides de Egipto desde la mesa del casino del hotel Luxor de Las Vegas. Fue como si alguien plantease\u00a0<span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/gabriel-garcia-marquez\/Gabriel-garcia-marquez-camino-a-macondo\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">reconstruir Macondo<\/a><\/span> entre los rascacielos de Nueva York. La Bombonera, como otros estadios todav\u00eda, atrae por su pureza inalterable al paso del tiempo. Sus gradas, repletas de trapos y pancartas tapando los carteles publicitarios, son un desaf\u00edo al f\u00fatbol moderno europeo en donde el riesgo significa llegar un d\u00eda a tu butaca y, en lugar del compa\u00f1ero de toda la vida, encontrar a un turista asi\u00e1tico haciendo fotos a 200 euros la entrada. En el caso de Boca-River en Espa\u00f1a, los turistas eran los madrile\u00f1os que se hicieron con una localidad por el puro morbo de asistir a la recreaci\u00f3n de una de las mayores rivalidades del mundo del f\u00fatbol sin saber siquiera qui\u00e9nes eran el \u00abPr\u00edncipe\u00bb Francescoli o Blas Giunta.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}}],\"editSettings\":{}}],\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"vdz2zxt\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_layout\":\"\",\"stretch_section\":\"\",\"layout\":\"boxed\",\"content_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"gap\":\"default\",\"height\":\"default\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":400},\"column_position\":\"middle\",\"content_position\":\"\",\"structure\":\"10\",\"section_background\":\"\",\"background_background\":\"\",\"background_color\":\"\",\"background_color_stop\":{\"unit\":\"%\",\"size\":0},\"background_color_b\":\"\",\"background_color_b_stop\":{\"unit\":\"%\",\"size\":100},\"background_gradient_type\":\"linear\",\"background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":180},\"background_gradient_position\":\"center 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Vista general del juego durante el partido de vuelta de la final de la Copa Libertadores entre Boca Juniors y River Plate en el estadio Santiago Bernabeu en Madrid, Espa\u00f1a. Debido a los episodios violentos del 24 de noviembre en el estadio de River Plate, la CONMEBOL reprogram\u00f3 el partido y lo sac\u00f3 de Am\u00e9rica por primera vez en la historia. Cr\u00e9dito: Getty 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su parte, Marruecos alberga junto a otros pa\u00edses del norte de \u00c1frica uno de los fen\u00f3menos m\u00e1s interesantes a nivel de grada desde hace algunos a\u00f1os. Sus principales estadios se abarrotan los d\u00edas de partido y sus aficiones entonan c\u00e1nticos que superan con mucho lo deportivo. Espa\u00f1a vive de espaldas al d\u00eda a d\u00eda del vecino marroqu\u00ed. Pr\u00e1cticamente nadie a este lado del estrecho sabr\u00eda decir el nombre de un equipo local, no digamos ya de un par de jugadores. Sin embargo, lo que sucede en sus estadios es un extraordinario term\u00f3metro social. Los c\u00e1nticos que emanan de sus bancadas ser\u00edan la pesadilla de cualquier speaker-censor en su abnegada tarea de homogeneizar los campos hasta su despersonalizaci\u00f3n total. El Raja de Casablanca, fundado en 1949, es un equipo tradicionalmente ligado a las clases m\u00e1s populares de la ciudad. Juega sus partidos en el estadio Mohamed V, bautizado as\u00ed en honor del abuelo del actual rey de Marruecos, art\u00edfice de la independencia del protectorado franc\u00e9s en 1956. Como con La Bombonera de Buenos Aires, las fotos que usa la web de Cantona para promocionar este destino enfocan todas a la grada, convertida muchas veces en altavoz de la calle contra sus dirigentes pol\u00edticos. Sus mensajes y coreograf\u00edas son de las mejores del mundo en cuanto a sincronizaci\u00f3n, potencia y puesta en escena. Lo que no se ve no existe en los televisores de Europa, pero tienen millones de reproducciones en YouTube, seguidores j\u00f3venes que escuchan en sus himnos cosas como esta: \u00abLas autoridades lo han llenado de problemas \/ y\u00a0<span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/andrew-jennings-fifa-mundial-de-qatar\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">la corrupci\u00f3n de los Gobiernos<\/a><\/span> \/ el \u00e1rabe est\u00e1 viviendo con muchas dificultades \/ su futuro se ve oscuro \/ el rajawi [seguidor del Raja] es la voz del pueblo oprimido que no puedes escuchar \/ nosotros sabemos lo que est\u00e1 pasando\u00bb. Estos son los versos que canta al un\u00edsono un estadio de 67.000 espectadores en protesta por lo que entienden como una traici\u00f3n a la causa de la liberaci\u00f3n de Palestina. Marruecos suscribi\u00f3 a finales de 2020 un acuerdo para normalizar sus relaciones con Israel que rompe la hist\u00f3rica uni\u00f3n \u00e1rabe en torno a la solidaridad con el pueblo palestino. El periodista local de Associated France Presse (AFP) Hamza Mekouar recorri\u00f3 algunos de estos estadios, habl\u00f3 con sus residentes y recogi\u00f3 sus reflexiones. \u00abEl estadio sigue siendo el lugar en el que uno se puede expresar sin problema\u00bb, dec\u00eda un marroqu\u00ed, consciente de que vive bajo las normas de un Estado que por lo general no tolera bien las cr\u00edticas ni la libertad de expresi\u00f3n. La grada del estadio Mohamed V tiene c\u00e1nticos que luego se han usado en manifestaciones callejeras: \u00abEn este pa\u00eds vivimos en una nube sombr\u00eda \/ ustedes han robado las riquezas \/ y las han compartido con extranjeros \/ han destruido toda una generaci\u00f3n\u00bb. Eso es una afici\u00f3n reafirmando su identidad fundacional y reforzando los v\u00ednculos que le unen con su equipo y a este con los barrios de Casablanca a los que representa m\u00e1s all\u00e1 de los noventa minutos que dura un encuentro. No es el \u00fanico caso en la regi\u00f3n. Si esto sucediera en Espa\u00f1a, seguramente habr\u00eda muchas voces que clamar\u00edan contra la utilizaci\u00f3n pol\u00edtica de los estadios, exigir\u00edan que los c\u00e1nticos se limitasen a animar acr\u00edticamente a los jugadores y pedir\u00edan al speaker que hiciera atronar la megafon\u00eda. La se\u00f1al de televisi\u00f3n, por supuesto, enfocar\u00eda hacia otro lado. Y todas estas prevenciones no tendr\u00edan siquiera una motivaci\u00f3n pol\u00edtica, sino econ\u00f3mica: salvaguardar el producto con un formato amable, porque meterse en l\u00edos no vende. Ya lo advirti\u00f3 en su momento el propio Michael Jordan cuando se sacudi\u00f3 cualquier implicaci\u00f3n pol\u00edtica en favor de los afroamericanos con un c\u00ednico \u00ablos republicanos tambi\u00e9n compran zapatillas\u00bb. Me pregunto cu\u00e1l ser\u00e1 la frase que la agencia de viajes de Cantona recomienda memorizar a sus clientes coleccionistas de experiencias fuertes cuando lleguen a Casablanca.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"9jqypdh\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><strong>OTROS\u00a0CONTENIDOS DE INTER\u00c9S:<\/strong><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/eduardo-sacheri-hoy-si-argentina-francia-final-mundial\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Eduardo Sacheri: Hoy s\u00ed<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/messi-psg-clubes-estado\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Ciudadano Messi al PSG: la oscura trama detr\u00e1s de los clubes-Estado<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/maradona-victor-hugo-morales-mundial-de-mexico\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">\u00abGenio, genio, genio\u00bb: Maradona y \u00abla jugada de todos los tiempos\u00bb<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/el-estadio-vacio\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">El estadio vac\u00edo: historias de cuando al f\u00fatbol se le arrebat\u00f3 el alma<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/expresiones-futbol-mundial-catar\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Hablar bien de f\u00fatbol s\u00ed es posible<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/andrew-jennings-fifa-mundial-de-qatar\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\">Andrew Jennings, el periodista que investigaba mafias (o c\u00f3mo el Mundial acab\u00f3 en 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15 minutos
29 de noviembre de 2020. Un hincha de Diego Maradona levanta el puño en lo alto de las gradas del estadio Alberto J. Armando antes de un partido entre Boca Juniors y Newell's Old Boys como parte de la Copa Diego Maradona, la antigua Copa de la Liga Profesional de Fútbol de AFA. Crédito: Getty Images.

29 de noviembre de 2020. Un hincha de Diego Maradona levanta el puño en lo alto de las gradas del estadio Alberto J. Armando antes de un partido entre Boca Juniors y Newell's Old Boys como parte de la Copa Diego Maradona, la antigua Copa de la Liga Profesional de Fútbol de AFA. Crédito: Getty Images.

Me detuve en una página web a la que me llevó mi algoritmo, que nunca desperdicia la oportunidad de demostrar lo perdido que está respecto a mis gustos. Quizá fue porque la imagen de la cosa era Éric Cantona, alguien que tras dejar el fútbol protagonizó —interpretándose a sí mismo— una de las películas más esperanzadoras de la obra del genial Ken Loach (Buscando a Éric, 2009). El delantero francés que reinó en Old Trafford con su personalidad apabullante aparecía en aquella web en su versión actual, sin el cuello de su camiseta roja del United levantado, sino con barba descuidada y pasado de kilos. Anunciaba una extraña agencia de viajes futbolera que ofrecía vivir la experiencia de presenciar un partido en alguno de los principales estadios del planeta. La propuesta va más allá de conseguirte un sitio en el campo, es algo más ambiciosa. El paquete incluye alojamiento y una serie de actividades en la ciudad relacionadas con el estadio y el equipo elegido. Se trata de un producto exclusivo, no ofrece un partido cualquiera, sino los más importantes del año. En España daban la opción de apuntarse en una lista de espera para vivir el cruce de Champions entre el Real Madrid y el PSG. El plan incluía una masterclass con un periodista de El País, desayunar en el Rastro o ensayar cánticos con la peña madridista Al Ataque. Meses después, la misma web con Cantona a modo de reclamo ofrecía una visita al Camp Nou para presenciar un clásico, otra masterclass, en este caso con un agente de futbolistas, y una tarde de cervezas y canciones con la Penya Cinc Copes culé. Todo por un módico precio de 1.425 dólares de nada. Y eso sin incluir el desplazamiento, que corre a cuenta del cliente. Hay un apartado sobre respuestas a preguntas frecuentes de los usuarios. Una de ellas recomienda memorizar frases antes de acudir al destino en cuestión. En el caso de Barcelona, aconsejan apuntarse en alguna parte para no olvidarse que «tot el camp és un clam». Si usted ha llegado hasta aquí, querido lector, ya podrá imaginar lo que pienso de que los clubes reserven una parte de sus estadios a explotar este tipo de negocios para turistas adinerados en detrimento de un aficionado tradicional. Para empezar, la consecuencia directa de que exista gente dispuesta a pagar más de 2.000 euros por un capricho de cuarenta y ocho horas es el encarecimiento de los abonos para el público general la temporada siguiente. Es el mercado, te dirán.

Pero lo que realmente me llamó la atención de la astracanada fue comprobar la lista de los estadios con los que trabaja esta agencia. También están San Siro de Milán, Anfield de Liverpool, Old Trafford de Mánchester, el Parque de los Príncipes de París o el José Alvalade de Lisboa. Hasta ahí, todo bastante previsible. Son las sedes de algunos de los equipos más mediáticos del mundo en cuyas plantillas se encuentran las principales figuras del momento. Sin embargo, la oferta también incluía dos destinos poco convencionales; la Bombonera de Buenos Aires, la cancha de Boca Juniors, y el estadio Mohamed V, el hogar del Raja de Casablanca, uno de los equipos más seguidos de Marruecos. Estaremos todos de acuerdo en que estos dos conjuntos no están en esta selección por su estilo de juego ni por la calidad de sus futbolistas. Ni la Liga argentina ni la marroquí se retransmiten en la mayoría de los países europeos. ¿Cuál es el atractivo entonces? Su propuesta no es disfrutar de un buen partido, algo nunca garantizado, sino adentrarse en una atmósfera desconocida para un aficionado medio. Boca y Raja están ahí, compitiendo con Mbappé, Salah, Benzema y Messi, porque sus estadios son diferentes. Ofrecen una experiencia incomparable a pesar de no tener aire acondicionado en sus butacas. Ni falta que les hace. Desplazarse todavía hoy a algunos campos fuera del circuito «oficial» supone viajar casi en una máquina del tiempo a escenarios todavía sin desnaturalizar y eso es exactamente lo que los hace atractivos por auténticos. Su activo es algo mucho más perdurable en el tiempo que la inversión puntual de una fortuna extranjera capaz de reunir a jugadores de moda con una carrera limitada. El respeto a la tradición, la observancia de los códigos, la ortodoxia de una liturgia imposible de abarcar también es una inversión a largo plazo. Si todos los estadios acaban por ser iguales los unos a los otros, eso y otros muchos tesoros particulares moldeados con el tiempo se perderán.

Noviembre de 2021. Banderolas con la imagen de Maradona, eterno héroe local, en la grada de la Bombonera. Crédito: Getty Images.

Noviembre de 2021. Banderolas con la imagen de Maradona, eterno héroe local, en la grada de la Bombonera. Crédito: Getty Images.

La cancha de Boca es un viejo templo del fútbol mundial con nombre de galán de telenovela. Oficialmente se llama estadio Alberto José Armando, pero todos lo conocen como La Bombonera porque al arquitecto que ideó el diseño le regalaron una caja de bombones y cayó en la cuenta del extraordinario parecido que tenía con su obra. Entre las calles del Doctor del Valle Iberlucea y Brandsen de Buenos Aires, preside desde hace ochenta años el corazón de La Boca, uno de esos barrios de la capital argentina a evitar cuando cae la noche. Ese lugar lo fundaron hace dos siglos emigrantes genoveses y en las aceras de sus calles sin alcantarillado se amontonaba la mierda, razón por la que a los hinchas de Boca les llaman bosteros. No es precisamente uno de esos estadios con comodidades. De hecho, buena parte de sus gradas no tienen ni butacas, todos de pie, apiñados, imponentes. Difícilmente una infraestructura así podría albergar una gran final según los cánones europeos. Ellos se lo pierden. «Muchos caudillos se cagaron en esta cancha», dejó dicho Maradona. Sus alrededores huelen a choripán servido en asados callejeros y vino. Uno de los murales que decora sus fachadas dice así: «A los fundadores y a la gente, a los artistas y a los ídolos, al tango y al fútbol, que hicieron de la Boca un destino y un mito». La Bombonera es un lugar místico que como otros estadios en Sudamérica ha emprendido el camino de la europeización con remodelaciones en las que anuncian butacas más cómodas, palcos vip y nuevas opciones de explotación del recinto que traerán, dicen, mayores ingresos. River Plate inició el mismo camino con El Monumental, incluyendo un cambio en la distribución del aforo y eliminando el color tradicional de las gradas, que era una franja roja cuidadosamente pintada sobre un fondo blanco en cada sector imitando la camiseta del equipo. Ahora será todo gris hormigón como el cielo nublado de Bruselas o el traje de un funcionario de la Rumanía de Ceausescu. Los hinchas protestaron y la dirigencia del club les contestó así: «Todos estamos acostumbrados a ver el estadio con el color que nos caracterizó toda la vida, pero bueno, si uno mira hoy lo que está pasando en el mundo y uno mira a los entendidos cuando uno hace estas cosas no tiene que creerse que uno sabe todo. Hay que escuchar a los entendidos y los estadios más importantes del mundo están trabajando con colores oscuros». Los entendidos. En lugar de poner en valor la identidad propia, esta se destruye para hacer lo mismo que están haciendo todos por recomendación de unos presuntos entendidos que nadie sabe quiénes son o cuáles son sus criterios. Maracaná, el coloso brasileño, ya se lo cargaron para el Mundial de 2014 hasta despojarlo de la personalidad que lo hacía único para convertirlo en un estadio más. Construido para el Mundial de 1950, Maracaná llegó a contar con un aforo de 220.000 espectadores. Vivir un partido en esa cancha era presenciar una radiografía de la sociedad carioca, con su clase media acomodada, los arquibaldos, copando la zona de las arquibancadas. Debajo de ellos estaban los geraldinos abarrotando la grada general, la más económica. Poco o nada queda ya de eso. Alerta. Los lugares sagrados acarrean siempre la condición de intocables porque en cada piedra pueden haber sucedido cosas importantes. Basta visitar La Bombonera en compañía de uno de sus feligreses para comprobar que en ese escenario abundan los objetos sacros. «En aquel arco fue donde Roma atajó el penal que definió el campeonato de 1962». Da igual que esa portería la hayan cambiado cien veces desde entonces porque siempre será el arco donde el portero de Boca le paró el penalti decisivo a River y la gente invadió el campo para festejarlo hace sesenta años. «Allá arriba se ubica La Doce [los seguidores más incondicionales]». «Aquel es el palquito de Diego», desde donde celebraba los goles de su equipo como un Che, tocado con su gorra verde oliva y su habano cubano. Ahora va su hija. «Y aquel es el alambrado al que se encaramó el Diez tras convertir el penal contra Argentinos Juniors en el 97». «Y en esa otra verja es donde trepó el "Manteca" Martínez luego de vacunar a River en el 92».

Vista aérea del barrio de La Boca y del estadio Alberto J. Armando, popularmente conocido como la Bombonera. Crédito: Getty Images.

Vista aérea del barrio de La Boca y del estadio Alberto J. Armando, popularmente conocido como la Bombonera. Crédito: Getty Images.

Ahora, algunos de estos vallados los han retirado en uno de esos retoques estéticos que acaban por alterar la personalidad de una mirada. Todavía resiste alguna de esas vallas. Tiene sus hierros entrecruzados como los que delimitan cualquier potrero y acaban deformados de tanto recibir balonazos. Son como la alambrada por la que trepaba Vega, el luchador español del popular videojuego de los noventa Street Fighter II. Por definición, una alambrada es un símbolo de separación que convierte en sospechoso a quien se confina al otro lado. Pero hay vallados que el tiempo convirtió en otra cosa. Me detuve en esta idea en un artículo para la revista Líbero tras la muerte de Maradona. Ni el «Pelusa» ni el uruguayo Sergio Daniel «Manteca» Martínez eran cacos que estuvieran huyendo de nada cuando se encaramaron en esa verja, sino ídolos que buscaban fundirse en un abrazo eterno con la gente. No se podía subir cualquiera a ese alambrado. A nadie se le ocurriría trepar por un gol intrascendente. Tampoco un recién llegado sin ser bendecido antes por la grada. Ese vallado es casi como un lienzo reservado a culminar las más bellas obras de arte dibujadas antes sobre el césped. Basta echar un vistazo a la imagen de Batistuta cuando la goleada a Racing de Avellaneda en el 91. Inmortalizado por la cámara de Luis Micou, parece como un cristo del Renacimiento con dos compañeros abrazados a sus pies en el papel de la Virgen María y san Juan Evangelista. Uno de los últimos en realizar el ritual fue Carlos Tévez, el «Apache», justo antes de la pandemia tras el gol que les dio el campeonato en 2019. Le siguió dos años después el «Pipa» Benedetto para celebrar el gol de la victoria al eterno rival en el superclásico de 2022.

Buena parte de sus gradas no tienen ni butacas, todos de pie, apiñados, imponentes. Difícilmente una infraestructura así podría albergar una gran final según los cánones europeos. Ellos se lo pierden. «Muchos caudillos se cagaron en esta cancha», dejó dicho Maradona. Sus alrededores huelen a choripán servido en asados callejeros y vino. Uno de los murales que decora sus fachadas dice así: «A los fundadores y a la gente, a los artistas y a los ídolos, al tango y al fútbol, que hicieron de la Boca un destino y un mito».

Pretendieron llevar a Madrid una parte de toda esa esencia cuando, en 2018, unos incidentes violentos impidieron a Boca y a River disputar en Buenos Aires la final de la Copa Libertadores de América, la máxima competición de clubes en ese continente adonde el fútbol llegó antes que a España. El superclásico del fútbol argentino es algo sencillamente inexportable fuera de su entorno. No es un táper con croquetas de tu madre que te puedas llevar a casa. Un Boca-River lejos de la Bombonera o el Monumental se muere. Es el marco en el que se desenvuelve esta historia, el atractivo de un partido que en lo futbolístico hace ya tiempo que perdió interés. En condiciones normales, sería uno de esos encuentros que el relato único del gusto europeo futbolero rechazaría por mediocre. Contemplar un Boca-River al resguardo de la comodidad de un estadio como el Bernabéu es como pretender conocer las pirámides de Egipto desde la mesa del casino del hotel Luxor de Las Vegas. Fue como si alguien plantease reconstruir Macondo entre los rascacielos de Nueva York. La Bombonera, como otros estadios todavía, atrae por su pureza inalterable al paso del tiempo. Sus gradas, repletas de trapos y pancartas tapando los carteles publicitarios, son un desafío al fútbol moderno europeo en donde el riesgo significa llegar un día a tu butaca y, en lugar del compañero de toda la vida, encontrar a un turista asiático haciendo fotos a 200 euros la entrada. En el caso de Boca-River en España, los turistas eran los madrileños que se hicieron con una localidad por el puro morbo de asistir a la recreación de una de las mayores rivalidades del mundo del fútbol sin saber siquiera quiénes eran el «Príncipe» Francescoli o Blas Giunta.

9 de diciembre de 2018. Vista general del juego durante el partido de vuelta de la final de la Copa Libertadores entre Boca Juniors y River Plate en el estadio Santiago Bernabeu en Madrid, España. Debido a los episodios violentos del 24 de noviembre en el estadio de River Plate, la CONMEBOL reprogramó el partido y lo sacó de América por primera vez en la historia. Crédito: Getty Images.

9 de diciembre de 2018. Vista general del juego durante el partido de vuelta de la final de la Copa Libertadores entre Boca Juniors y River Plate en el estadio Santiago Bernabeu en Madrid, España. Debido a los episodios violentos del 24 de noviembre en el estadio de River Plate, la CONMEBOL reprogramó el partido y lo sacó de América por primera vez en la historia. Crédito: Getty Images.

Por su parte, Marruecos alberga junto a otros países del norte de África uno de los fenómenos más interesantes a nivel de grada desde hace algunos años. Sus principales estadios se abarrotan los días de partido y sus aficiones entonan cánticos que superan con mucho lo deportivo. España vive de espaldas al día a día del vecino marroquí. Prácticamente nadie a este lado del estrecho sabría decir el nombre de un equipo local, no digamos ya de un par de jugadores. Sin embargo, lo que sucede en sus estadios es un extraordinario termómetro social. Los cánticos que emanan de sus bancadas serían la pesadilla de cualquier speaker-censor en su abnegada tarea de homogeneizar los campos hasta su despersonalización total. El Raja de Casablanca, fundado en 1949, es un equipo tradicionalmente ligado a las clases más populares de la ciudad. Juega sus partidos en el estadio Mohamed V, bautizado así en honor del abuelo del actual rey de Marruecos, artífice de la independencia del protectorado francés en 1956. Como con La Bombonera de Buenos Aires, las fotos que usa la web de Cantona para promocionar este destino enfocan todas a la grada, convertida muchas veces en altavoz de la calle contra sus dirigentes políticos. Sus mensajes y coreografías son de las mejores del mundo en cuanto a sincronización, potencia y puesta en escena. Lo que no se ve no existe en los televisores de Europa, pero tienen millones de reproducciones en YouTube, seguidores jóvenes que escuchan en sus himnos cosas como esta: «Las autoridades lo han llenado de problemas / y la corrupción de los Gobiernos / el árabe está viviendo con muchas dificultades / su futuro se ve oscuro / el rajawi [seguidor del Raja] es la voz del pueblo oprimido que no puedes escuchar / nosotros sabemos lo que está pasando». Estos son los versos que canta al unísono un estadio de 67.000 espectadores en protesta por lo que entienden como una traición a la causa de la liberación de Palestina. Marruecos suscribió a finales de 2020 un acuerdo para normalizar sus relaciones con Israel que rompe la histórica unión árabe en torno a la solidaridad con el pueblo palestino. El periodista local de Associated France Presse (AFP) Hamza Mekouar recorrió algunos de estos estadios, habló con sus residentes y recogió sus reflexiones. «El estadio sigue siendo el lugar en el que uno se puede expresar sin problema», decía un marroquí, consciente de que vive bajo las normas de un Estado que por lo general no tolera bien las críticas ni la libertad de expresión. La grada del estadio Mohamed V tiene cánticos que luego se han usado en manifestaciones callejeras: «En este país vivimos en una nube sombría / ustedes han robado las riquezas / y las han compartido con extranjeros / han destruido toda una generación». Eso es una afición reafirmando su identidad fundacional y reforzando los vínculos que le unen con su equipo y a este con los barrios de Casablanca a los que representa más allá de los noventa minutos que dura un encuentro. No es el único caso en la región. Si esto sucediera en España, seguramente habría muchas voces que clamarían contra la utilización política de los estadios, exigirían que los cánticos se limitasen a animar acríticamente a los jugadores y pedirían al speaker que hiciera atronar la megafonía. La señal de televisión, por supuesto, enfocaría hacia otro lado. Y todas estas prevenciones no tendrían siquiera una motivación política, sino económica: salvaguardar el producto con un formato amable, porque meterse en líos no vende. Ya lo advirtió en su momento el propio Michael Jordan cuando se sacudió cualquier implicación política en favor de los afroamericanos con un cínico «los republicanos también compran zapatillas». Me pregunto cuál será la frase que la agencia de viajes de Cantona recomienda memorizar a sus clientes coleccionistas de experiencias fuertes cuando lleguen a Casablanca.

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