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«Noto que mis manos comienzan a congelarse...»: Jorge Egocheaga revive el feroz ascenso al Dhaulagiri

El alpinista asturiano, miembro del selecto club de quienes han subido los 14 ochomiles del planeta, relata su ascensión al Dhaulagiri, la séptima montaña más alta. Este texto forma parte de sus memorias, «Quizás vivir sea esto».

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nombre proviene del s\u00e1nscrito Dhaula, que significa \\\"deslumbrante, blanco, hermoso\\\", y giri, que significa \\\"monta\u00f1a\\\". El macizo se halla rodeado por el norte y el sudoeste por los afluentes del Bheri y al sureste por Myagdi Khola. El Dhaulagiri I, con 8167 m s. n. m. ocupa el s\u00e9ptimo lugar entre los catorce picos de m\u00e1s de ocho mil metros de la Tierra. <strong>Fue escalado por primera vez el 13 de mayo de 1960 por una expedici\u00f3n suizo-austriaca.<\/strong><\/i><\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/biografias\/227071-quizas-vivir-sea-esto\\\">La invit\u00e9 a venir. Acept\u00f3. Fui con I\u00f1aki y con ella, Jo\u00eblle.<\/a>\u00a0Nos acompa\u00f1aron tambi\u00e9n Oscar e Ignacio, dos bell\u00edsimas personas, amigos de I\u00f1aki. <strong>Nunca hab\u00eda esperado un viaje con tanta ilusi\u00f3n, a mis a\u00f1os.<\/strong> Y all\u00ed estaba yo, en el Himalaya, en una monta\u00f1a alta, enamorado, consciente del peligro que ello supon\u00eda (I\u00f1aki a la expectativa, a la espera del <em>fallo<\/em> para descojonarse en mi cara despu\u00e9s de mis discursos a su persona en fechas pret\u00e9ritas pero cercanas). <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Disfruto de un <em>trekking<\/em> en el que intento mantenerme tranquilo y relajado, con la vivencia de un presente tantas veces esquivo. Procuro ser agradable pero sinti\u00e9ndome distante. Acabo de llegar de <a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/guias-y-literatura-de-viajes\/25351-trilogia-de-africa\\\">\u00c1frica<\/a>, sur de Somalia, en donde he estado trabajando bastante tiempo. Me cuesta mucho desconectar pues sigo dando vueltas a las desgracias y atrocidades all\u00ed vividas. <strong>Pobre iluso, como si el cosmos no siguiese sus propios cursos, independientes de nuestras intenciones.<\/strong> As\u00ed, en los \u00faltimos meses no he podido entrenar en el aspecto f\u00edsico pero he convivido con gentes que sufren lo indecible por sobrevivir. No conozco mejor entrenamiento para estas monta\u00f1as que \\\"convivir\\\" con el sufrimiento. Adem\u00e1s, el m\u00edo aqu\u00ed es voluntario... <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p>El 7 de abril estamos debajo de la monta\u00f1a, sobre el glaciar. <strong>Ante la bella visi\u00f3n del Dhaulagiri le presento mis respetos.<\/strong> Mientras lo hago, una mano agarra la m\u00eda. Siempre supe, desde el primer instante, all\u00e1 en el primer campo del Broad, que nada ni nadie nos separar\u00eda jam\u00e1s. Durante las siguientes jornadas, mi mente intenta mantenerse concentrada en la escalada. Mi coraz\u00f3n y mi alma saltan y gritan en un juego que cre\u00edan perdido para siempre.\u00a0<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"kzjyr40\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>No conozco mejor entrenamiento para estas monta\u00f1as que <em>convivir<\/em> con el sufrimiento. Adem\u00e1s, el mio aqu\u00ed es voluntario...<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#000000\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"40\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"24\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Vollkorn\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"45\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"30\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"95\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"95\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"30\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"30\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"g99qzpb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Comienza el trabajo de la aclimataci\u00f3n. Resulta mucho m\u00e1s sencillo que en ocasiones anteriores. El tiempo no pasa, se desliza sobre s\u00ed mismo. Me siento inundado de energ\u00eda mientras una bipolaridad me abraza: la alegr\u00eda desbordante y el miedo a la misma. <strong>Las vivencias me han ense\u00f1ado que el Universo, en busca de su homeostasis, equilibra la alegr\u00eda con el horror.<\/strong> Tengo experiencia en el hecho y me asusto al pensarlo, intentando autoconvencerme de que en esta ocasi\u00f3n todo ser\u00e1 diferente. Por alg\u00fan motivo estoy seguro de haberla conocido antes, en otra vida. Es como si lo supi\u00e9ramos todo uno del otro, sin apenas contarnos nada, sin necesidad de hablar siquiera. Nos miramos a los ojos y sabemos que estamos pensando lo mismo.<strong> El hilo de las vidas nos ha juntado de nuevo por una extra\u00f1a, quiz\u00e1s simple raz\u00f3n.<\/strong> <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Pasan los d\u00edas, aclimatamos, salidas y noches en campos de altura sin m\u00e1s. Lo de siempre pero muy distinto. Todo resulta f\u00e1cil. Casi nada. En realidad todo. <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">El tiempo se presenta inestable pero I\u00f1aki pretende intentarlo. Yo no quiero discutir as\u00ed que aunque me muestro en desacuerdo, pues creo que nos falta algo de aclimataci\u00f3n, lo acompa\u00f1ar\u00e9. Como la climatolog\u00eda no es buena decide hacerlo de un tir\u00f3n, desde el Campo Base,<em> I\u00f1aki style.<\/em> Hasta le estoy cogiendo gusto. Considero que no estamos a\u00fan preparados. Pienso que llegaremos al Campo III y desde all\u00ed nos bajaremos, as\u00ed que asiento. Con esa idea en mi cabeza, partimos hacia arriba el 29 de abril a las cinco de la tarde. Llegamos bien al Campo II. Durante el trayecto observamos alguna estrella, lo que nos muestra un tiempo quiz\u00e1s no tan malo. Entre los Campos II y III, en la oscuridad de la noche, tomo la delantera todo el trayecto abriendo huella y colocando alguna cuerda que nos asegure el descenso en los lugares m\u00e1s cr\u00edticos. Llegamos de madrugada al Campo III a 7300 m. Estamos rodeados de nubes, pero en contra de lo por m\u00ed planeado, nos encontramos bien. <strong>I\u00f1aki decide continuar. Yo, una vez m\u00e1s, lo sigo sin discutir.<\/strong> M\u00e1s arriba, durante la escalada en una traves\u00eda complicada y expuesta, la nieve nos llega hasta la cadera, por lo que pasamos mucho miedo ante el elevado riesgo de sufrir una avalancha. Conseguimos atravesar. Comienzo a encontrarme muy cansado por el esfuerzo realizado durante toda la noche. Por suerte, despu\u00e9s de la traves\u00eda, la nieve se encuentra en mejores condiciones. Avanzamos m\u00e1s r\u00e1pido. Aun as\u00ed llegamos tarde a la cima: son ya las 14 horas del d\u00eda 30 cuando alcanzamos el punto m\u00e1s alto. Durante el descenso de las primeras rampas el tiempo cambia bruscamente y un instante m\u00e1s tarde nos vemos envueltos en medio de la tormenta que llevaba amenaz\u00e1ndonos toda la subida. <strong>Resulta dif\u00edcil encontrar el camino correcto al haberse borrado las huellas de ascenso mientras <em>destrepamos<\/em> sumergidos en una intensa niebla, viento huracanado y nieve.<\/strong> Nos despistamos varias veces y el descenso se hace a\u00fan m\u00e1s lento. Llegamos al Campo III ya de noche. Como no disponemos de tienda continuamos bajando. Si par\u00e1semos nos congelar\u00edamos r\u00e1pidamente, ya que sopla un fuerte viento que ha hecho caer en picado la sensaci\u00f3n t\u00e9rmica. I\u00f1aki se adelanta en un r\u00e1pel. Cuando estoy colocando mi ocho (utensilio de escalada que sirve para asegurar al compa\u00f1ero o realizar un r\u00e1pel), el suelo se mueve bajo mis pies. Un instante m\u00e1s tarde estoy cayendo sobre una placa de viento (superficie de nieve inestable que ha sido transformada por el viento, sustent\u00e1ndose sobre hielo. As\u00ed, cuando se pisa puede romperse y deslizarse ladera abajo provocando una avalancha) que se ha cortado. Todo ocurre muy r\u00e1pido a mi alrededor. Solo pienso en mantenerme encima, sin girar, mientras me deslizo a toda velocidad ladera 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class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Fuera todo es veloz; dentro de m\u00ed todo ocurre a c\u00e1mara lenta, pues mi cerebro analiza la posici\u00f3n instant\u00e1nea, la escasa visi\u00f3n perif\u00e9rica del frontal, la situaci\u00f3n moment\u00e1nea, la realidad de mi destino. <strong>Me voy a matar ahora que hab\u00eda comenzado a vivir, despu\u00e9s de aquella grieta\u2026<\/strong> Lo acepto y sigo desliz\u00e1ndome. No s\u00e9 por cu\u00e1nto tiempo, corto all\u00e1 afuera, prolongado ac\u00e1 adentro. Dif\u00edcil de explicar. Finalmente me detengo. Examino la situaci\u00f3n. Mientras lo hago vuelvo de nuevo a precipitarme, r\u00e1pido all\u00e1 afuera, sutil ac\u00e1 adentro. La ca\u00edda termina, espero. No s\u00e9 d\u00f3nde estoy, cu\u00e1ntos metros he bajado, si me he roto algo. Pienso con calma, como si nada hubiera pasado. Analizo mi cuerpo, estoy entero, o eso creo pues me duele todo. De mi equipo he perdido la mochila, que seguramente me ha amortiguado duros golpes; el frontal, por lo que estoy a ciegas, los guantes, uno de los crampones y los piolets.<strong> La tormenta se enfurece atemorizando todo alrededor.<\/strong> No puedo quedarme parado y comienzo a caminar, me muevo. A los pocos metros de avance mi pie pisa en vac\u00edo, una grieta. Estoy sobre un glaciar y no veo. Me doy diez metros de recorrido y empiezo a caminar de un extremo al otro de esos diez metros libres de grietas. <strong>Noto que mis manos comienzan a congelarse. Deseo que la noche pase cuanto antes, pienso en mi familia y sobre todo, en Jo\u00eblle.<\/strong> Diez metros y vuelvo caminando sobre los mismos diez metros, una y otra vez, as\u00ed durante todas las horas que dura la noche, sin frontal, sin guantes, con un solo cramp\u00f3n, sin piolets\u2026 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los dedos de pies y manos negros como el carb\u00f3n. Temo que se me infecten, que me tengan que amputar m\u00e1s all\u00e1 de lo que intuyo irremediable.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#000000\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"40\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"24\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Vollkorn\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"45\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"30\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"95\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"95\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"30\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"30\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"i5jw4hh\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><b style=\\\"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;\\\">La vuelta <o:p><\/o:p><\/b><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Me regresan en helic\u00f3ptero a Katmand\u00fa. Me opongo, pero I\u00f1aki se pone firme y me obliga. Quiz\u00e1s a\u00fan no sea consciente del estado en el que me encuentro. Arribo a la capital de Nepal y me hago eco de mi situaci\u00f3n real cuando por la ma\u00f1ana quiero ir al ba\u00f1o y no soy, primero, capaz de abrir la puerta, y despu\u00e9s, de bajarme los pantalones. <strong>Estoy solo y estoy in\u00fatil. Vivo la peor de mis pesadillas, la de la obligaci\u00f3n de la dependencia.<\/strong> Intento cambiar el vuelo para llegar cuanto antes a un hospital decente pero a pesar de mi desesperaci\u00f3n, de mostrar las manos en las compa\u00f1\u00edas a\u00e9reas, nadie se apiada de m\u00ed. Recurro al soborno y lo que era imposible se convierte en realidad en pocos minutos. El asqueroso poder del dinero, siempre por encima del fracasado valor de la empat\u00eda. <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Mi mejor amigo, Jaime me espera en el aeropuerto para llevarme directamente al hospital junto a mi maravillosa hermana Ana. Cuando me ven, unas furtivas l\u00e1grimas resbalan por sus ojos. Mi aspecto debe de ser peor de lo que yo pensaba. Los cirujanos quieren ingresarme. En el programa se\u00f1alan amputarme siete dedos de las manos y tres de los pies. Me niego. <strong>Siento que a\u00fan hay vida en mis extremidades.<\/strong> Busco terapias nuevas. Me decido por inyectarme prostaglandinas. Es peligroso y duele mucho pero me arriesgo. Al final, despu\u00e9s de cuatro meses de agon\u00eda, horas y horas de rehabilitaci\u00f3n y muchos dolores<em> solo<\/em> pierdo las yemas de los dedos de la mano izquierda y el dedo gordo del pie. Durante este tiempo Jo\u00eblle se convierte en mi mejor apoyo y gracias a ella supero etapas dif\u00edciles.<\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Recuerdo aquel lisiado que saltaba de dolor. Aun as\u00ed su mejor amigo y su chica lo animaron para intentar escalar la monta\u00f1a m\u00e1s caracter\u00edstica de su tierra. Lo hab\u00eda hecho con anterioridad muchas veces pero ahora ten\u00eda los dedos negros y vendados. El reto result\u00f3 dif\u00edcil y maravilloso a un mismo tiempo. Jaime y Jo\u00eblle le brindaron la mejor compa\u00f1\u00eda imaginable en un d\u00eda inolvidable, un d\u00eda de felicidad completa en el que el dolor se vio bloqueado por el bienestar del Cosmos.<strong> Un d\u00eda que fue capaz de justificar toda una existencia vital, sin excusas antes, sin excusas despu\u00e9s.<\/strong><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><strong><\/strong><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">Once meses despu\u00e9s del accidente, I\u00f1aki me llama para que lo acompa\u00f1e en su intento de escalada a la pared sur del Annapurna, la pared de mis sue\u00f1os. Me duele y me cuesta rechazar la oferta pero mis dedos a\u00fan no est\u00e1n en condiciones de soportar una prueba como esa. <strong>Durante el transcurso de la expedici\u00f3n I\u00f1aki, mi hermano de alma, pierde la vida poco a poco.<\/strong> Yo, que lo sigo desde casa angustiado e impotente no puedo m\u00e1s que sentirme una vez m\u00e1s in\u00fatil y culpable por no estar all\u00ed para ayudar. 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20 min.

El Dhaulagiri y sus 8.167 metros de altura. Crédito: Jorge Egocheaga Rodríguez.

Por JORGE EGOCHEAGA RODRÍGUEZ

 

Dhaulagiri. El nombre proviene del sánscrito Dhaula, que significa "deslumbrante, blanco, hermoso", y giri, que significa "montaña". El macizo se halla rodeado por el norte y el sudoeste por los afluentes del Bheri y al sureste por Myagdi Khola. El Dhaulagiri I, con 8167 m s. n. m. ocupa el séptimo lugar entre los catorce picos de más de ocho mil metros de la Tierra. Fue escalado por primera vez el 13 de mayo de 1960 por una expedición suizo-austriaca.

 

La invité a venir. Aceptó. Fui con Iñaki y con ella, Joëlle. Nos acompañaron también Oscar e Ignacio, dos bellísimas personas, amigos de Iñaki. Nunca había esperado un viaje con tanta ilusión, a mis años. Y allí estaba yo, en el Himalaya, en una montaña alta, enamorado, consciente del peligro que ello suponía (Iñaki a la expectativa, a la espera del fallo para descojonarse en mi cara después de mis discursos a su persona en fechas pretéritas pero cercanas).

Disfruto de un trekking en el que intento mantenerme tranquilo y relajado, con la vivencia de un presente tantas veces esquivo. Procuro ser agradable pero sintiéndome distante. Acabo de llegar de África, sur de Somalia, en donde he estado trabajando bastante tiempo. Me cuesta mucho desconectar pues sigo dando vueltas a las desgracias y atrocidades allí vividas. Pobre iluso, como si el cosmos no siguiese sus propios cursos, independientes de nuestras intenciones. Así, en los últimos meses no he podido entrenar en el aspecto físico pero he convivido con gentes que sufren lo indecible por sobrevivir. No conozco mejor entrenamiento para estas montañas que "convivir" con el sufrimiento. Además, el mío aquí es voluntario...

El 7 de abril estamos debajo de la montaña, sobre el glaciar. Ante la bella visión del Dhaulagiri le presento mis respetos. Mientras lo hago, una mano agarra la mía. Siempre supe, desde el primer instante, allá en el primer campo del Broad, que nada ni nadie nos separaría jamás. Durante las siguientes jornadas, mi mente intenta mantenerse concentrada en la escalada. Mi corazón y mi alma saltan y gritan en un juego que creían perdido para siempre. 

No conozco mejor entrenamiento para estas montañas que convivir con el sufrimiento. Además, el mio aquí es voluntario...

Comienza el trabajo de la aclimatación. Resulta mucho más sencillo que en ocasiones anteriores. El tiempo no pasa, se desliza sobre sí mismo. Me siento inundado de energía mientras una bipolaridad me abraza: la alegría desbordante y el miedo a la misma. Las vivencias me han enseñado que el Universo, en busca de su homeostasis, equilibra la alegría con el horror. Tengo experiencia en el hecho y me asusto al pensarlo, intentando autoconvencerme de que en esta ocasión todo será diferente. Por algún motivo estoy seguro de haberla conocido antes, en otra vida. Es como si lo supiéramos todo uno del otro, sin apenas contarnos nada, sin necesidad de hablar siquiera. Nos miramos a los ojos y sabemos que estamos pensando lo mismo. El hilo de las vidas nos ha juntado de nuevo por una extraña, quizás simple razón.

Pasan los días, aclimatamos, salidas y noches en campos de altura sin más. Lo de siempre pero muy distinto. Todo resulta fácil. Casi nada. En realidad todo.

El tiempo se presenta inestable pero Iñaki pretende intentarlo. Yo no quiero discutir así que aunque me muestro en desacuerdo, pues creo que nos falta algo de aclimatación, lo acompañaré. Como la climatología no es buena decide hacerlo de un tirón, desde el Campo Base, Iñaki style. Hasta le estoy cogiendo gusto. Considero que no estamos aún preparados. Pienso que llegaremos al Campo III y desde allí nos bajaremos, así que asiento. Con esa idea en mi cabeza, partimos hacia arriba el 29 de abril a las cinco de la tarde. Llegamos bien al Campo II. Durante el trayecto observamos alguna estrella, lo que nos muestra un tiempo quizás no tan malo. Entre los Campos II y III, en la oscuridad de la noche, tomo la delantera todo el trayecto abriendo huella y colocando alguna cuerda que nos asegure el descenso en los lugares más críticos. Llegamos de madrugada al Campo III a 7300 m. Estamos rodeados de nubes, pero en contra de lo por mí planeado, nos encontramos bien. Iñaki decide continuar. Yo, una vez más, lo sigo sin discutir. Más arriba, durante la escalada en una travesía complicada y expuesta, la nieve nos llega hasta la cadera, por lo que pasamos mucho miedo ante el elevado riesgo de sufrir una avalancha. Conseguimos atravesar. Comienzo a encontrarme muy cansado por el esfuerzo realizado durante toda la noche. Por suerte, después de la travesía, la nieve se encuentra en mejores condiciones. Avanzamos más rápido. Aun así llegamos tarde a la cima: son ya las 14 horas del día 30 cuando alcanzamos el punto más alto. Durante el descenso de las primeras rampas el tiempo cambia bruscamente y un instante más tarde nos vemos envueltos en medio de la tormenta que llevaba amenazándonos toda la subida. Resulta difícil encontrar el camino correcto al haberse borrado las huellas de ascenso mientras destrepamos sumergidos en una intensa niebla, viento huracanado y nieve. Nos despistamos varias veces y el descenso se hace aún más lento. Llegamos al Campo III ya de noche. Como no disponemos de tienda continuamos bajando. Si parásemos nos congelaríamos rápidamente, ya que sopla un fuerte viento que ha hecho caer en picado la sensación térmica. Iñaki se adelanta en un rápel. Cuando estoy colocando mi ocho (utensilio de escalada que sirve para asegurar al compañero o realizar un rápel), el suelo se mueve bajo mis pies. Un instante más tarde estoy cayendo sobre una placa de viento (superficie de nieve inestable que ha sido transformada por el viento, sustentándose sobre hielo. Así, cuando se pisa puede romperse y deslizarse ladera abajo provocando una avalancha) que se ha cortado. Todo ocurre muy rápido a mi alrededor. Solo pienso en mantenerme encima, sin girar, mientras me deslizo a toda velocidad ladera abajo.

Fuera todo es veloz; dentro de mí todo ocurre a cámara lenta, pues mi cerebro analiza la posición instantánea, la escasa visión periférica del frontal, la situación momentánea, la realidad de mi destino. Me voy a matar ahora que había comenzado a vivir, después de aquella grieta… Lo acepto y sigo deslizándome. No sé por cuánto tiempo, corto allá afuera, prolongado acá adentro. Difícil de explicar. Finalmente me detengo. Examino la situación. Mientras lo hago vuelvo de nuevo a precipitarme, rápido allá afuera, sutil acá adentro. La caída termina, espero. No sé dónde estoy, cuántos metros he bajado, si me he roto algo. Pienso con calma, como si nada hubiera pasado. Analizo mi cuerpo, estoy entero, o eso creo pues me duele todo. De mi equipo he perdido la mochila, que seguramente me ha amortiguado duros golpes; el frontal, por lo que estoy a ciegas, los guantes, uno de los crampones y los piolets. La tormenta se enfurece atemorizando todo alrededor. No puedo quedarme parado y comienzo a caminar, me muevo. A los pocos metros de avance mi pie pisa en vacío, una grieta. Estoy sobre un glaciar y no veo. Me doy diez metros de recorrido y empiezo a caminar de un extremo al otro de esos diez metros libres de grietas. Noto que mis manos comienzan a congelarse. Deseo que la noche pase cuanto antes, pienso en mi familia y sobre todo, en Joëlle. Diez metros y vuelvo caminando sobre los mismos diez metros, una y otra vez, así durante todas las horas que dura la noche, sin frontal, sin guantes, con un solo crampón, sin piolets…

Agárrate bien

Amanece de manera muy lenta, extrañamente lenta, hasta que me doy cuenta de que estoy prácticamente ciego. Las córneas se me han congelado debido al viento y el frío que he pasado durante toda la noche. Estoy atrapado. De hecho, estoy muerto. Cuando tomo conciencia de esa realidad, todo se calma. La certeza de una muerte segura me abraza tranquilizando mi espíritu. La familia, Joëlle, dejan entonces de ocupar mi mente. Voy a morir pero lo haré luchando hasta el final. Solo pienso en luchar. Nada más ocupa lugar.

Instintivamente me pongo de rodillas y gateo. Uso la mano izquierda para palpar el terreno pues quiero que sea la primera en congelarse gravemente. Cuando noto el vacío que muestra la existencia de una grieta, intento bordearla. Me pongo de pie y sigo, cuando intuyo una grieta, me pongo de nuevo de rodillas para realizar la misma operación. Así pasa el día, para llegar de nuevo la noche, la segunda perdido. El tiempo es bueno, la tormenta ha pasado. En la oscuridad veo gente que me llama agitando los brazos, veo sus tiendas, sus frontales. Oigo sus gritos ofreciéndome ayuda, comida y agua, cobijo. No hago caso pues sé que son alucinaciones. Les saludo y sonrío pues también he decidido esperar a la muerte de buen humor. En ese instante desaparecen. Decido que pasaré la noche caminando de lado a lado sobre otros diez metros. Seguiré hasta que no pueda más, en la tranquilidad de la lucha recompensada por una muerte cierta. Amanece de nuevo. Lo que ayer eran sombras, ahora son perfiles. Creo ver el filo que lleva al Campo II; sigo con mi rutina de caminar, rodillas, apoyo de mano izquierda ante dudas, caminar hacia lo que creo que es la arista donde se encuentra la ruta de ascenso.

A las cuatro de la tarde del día 1 de mayo, Cristina Castaña, excelente alpinista italiana que está en el Campo I me ve a lo lejos. Me llama, sin creerse que pueda ser yo, pues para ellos hace muchas horas que estoy muerto. La oigo como quien escucha un eco y voy hacia él. La siento, me abraza mientras llora al mismo tiempo. Yo estoy demasiado vacío para darme mucha cuenta de lo que pasa. Recuerdo preguntarme por el motivo de su sentido llanto mientras solo deseo descansar un poco y beber un trago de agua. Uno será suficiente, pienso, para seguir y seguir, pues aunque no tengo claro a dónde, siento la obligación de continuar. No lloro, ni siquiera me alegro, estoy limpio de emociones. 

Cortesía de Jorge Egocheaga.

Alguien dice que se trata de un milagro. Yo recuerdo los cientos de horas de ayunos, entrenamientos extenuantes, físicos y mentales, años de sacrificio e intento de superación personal en búsqueda de un límite que quizás ahora, esté rozando. Pienso, escucho de nuevo la palabra milagro, mientras ahora ya, puedo esbozar una leve e irónica sonrisa.

Me meten en una tienda. Descanso durante media hora, que aprovecho para beber todo lo que puedo. Por sus caras sé que huelo muy mal. Mis maltrechas manos fueron incapaces de desabrochar las cremalleras del mono de plumas en las escasas ocasiones que mis esfínteres tocaron diana. A pesar de todo Cristina me trata con exquisito cariño. Me mira con ternura, las emociones retornan poco a poco. Quiero seguir descendiendo hasta el Campo Base, pues tengo congeladas las manos y los pies. Llego ya anocheciendo. Iñaki me ve y no da crédito. Me abraza mientras llora desconsoladamente. Todos me daban por muerto. Joëlle está en estado de shock mientras me observa como quien acaba de vislumbrar un fantasma. Cuando ella me abraza, soy consciente: estoy vivo.

Resulta duro no poder usar las manos ni siquiera para poder abrir una puerta o desabrocharse la bragueta ante la necesidad de ir al baño. Tengo los dedos de pies y manos negros como el carbón. Temo que se me infecten, que me tengan que amputar más allá de lo que intuyo irremediable. Estoy solo en Katmandú y no consigo un billete de vuelta… pero no quiero quejarme. En realidad, nadie me ha obligado a venir, estoy aquí porque yo lo he querido. No busco excusas. He venido libremente, soy responsable de lo que ha pasado y no quiero penitencias ni disculpas. A lo largo de mi vida profesional he sido partícipe de mucho sufrimiento no escogido, simplemente consecuente del lugar en el que uno es parido. Yo soy afortunado.

Tengo los dedos de pies y manos negros como el carbón. Temo que se me infecten, que me tengan que amputar más allá de lo que intuyo irremediable.

La vuelta

Me regresan en helicóptero a Katmandú. Me opongo, pero Iñaki se pone firme y me obliga. Quizás aún no sea consciente del estado en el que me encuentro. Arribo a la capital de Nepal y me hago eco de mi situación real cuando por la mañana quiero ir al baño y no soy, primero, capaz de abrir la puerta, y después, de bajarme los pantalones. Estoy solo y estoy inútil. Vivo la peor de mis pesadillas, la de la obligación de la dependencia. Intento cambiar el vuelo para llegar cuanto antes a un hospital decente pero a pesar de mi desesperación, de mostrar las manos en las compañías aéreas, nadie se apiada de mí. Recurro al soborno y lo que era imposible se convierte en realidad en pocos minutos. El asqueroso poder del dinero, siempre por encima del fracasado valor de la empatía.

Mi mejor amigo, Jaime me espera en el aeropuerto para llevarme directamente al hospital junto a mi maravillosa hermana Ana. Cuando me ven, unas furtivas lágrimas resbalan por sus ojos. Mi aspecto debe de ser peor de lo que yo pensaba. Los cirujanos quieren ingresarme. En el programa señalan amputarme siete dedos de las manos y tres de los pies. Me niego. Siento que aún hay vida en mis extremidades. Busco terapias nuevas. Me decido por inyectarme prostaglandinas. Es peligroso y duele mucho pero me arriesgo. Al final, después de cuatro meses de agonía, horas y horas de rehabilitación y muchos dolores solo pierdo las yemas de los dedos de la mano izquierda y el dedo gordo del pie. Durante este tiempo Joëlle se convierte en mi mejor apoyo y gracias a ella supero etapas difíciles.

Recuerdo aquel lisiado que saltaba de dolor. Aun así su mejor amigo y su chica lo animaron para intentar escalar la montaña más característica de su tierra. Lo había hecho con anterioridad muchas veces pero ahora tenía los dedos negros y vendados. El reto resultó difícil y maravilloso a un mismo tiempo. Jaime y Joëlle le brindaron la mejor compañía imaginable en un día inolvidable, un día de felicidad completa en el que el dolor se vio bloqueado por el bienestar del Cosmos. Un día que fue capaz de justificar toda una existencia vital, sin excusas antes, sin excusas después.

Once meses después del accidente, Iñaki me llama para que lo acompañe en su intento de escalada a la pared sur del Annapurna, la pared de mis sueños. Me duele y me cuesta rechazar la oferta pero mis dedos aún no están en condiciones de soportar una prueba como esa. Durante el transcurso de la expedición Iñaki, mi hermano de alma, pierde la vida poco a poco. Yo, que lo sigo desde casa angustiado e impotente no puedo más que sentirme una vez más inútil y culpable por no estar allí para ayudar. Finalmente ocurre. Llamo a Joëlle:

Joëlle, cariño, Iñaki ha muerto.

La oigo llorar al otro lado del teléfono mientras yo me desgarro por dentro…

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