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¿Mademoiselle Chanel?: el día en que Balenciaga conoció a Coco

Gabrielle Chanel quería pasar a la historia; Cristóbal Balenciaga, que su nombre muriera con él. Gabrielle Chanel dijo que quería ser copiada; Cristóbal Balenciaga hizo todo lo posible para evitar que le copiasen. Gabrielle Chanel se inventó su biografía; Cristóbal Balenciaga nunca ocultó sus orígenes. Las diferencias entre ambos son notables, pero algo les unía por encima de todo: el talento y la genialidad. Coincidiendo con el estreno en Disney+ de la miniserie que narra la vida del prestigioso modista vasco (enero de 2024), reproducimos un extracto del libro «El enigma Balenciaga» (Plaza & Janés), un texto en el que la autora de la obra, la periodista María Fernández-Miranda, recrea el momento en que se conocieron -en 1917, en el Gran Casino de San Sebastián, entre humo y timbas- dos de los diseñadores de moda más destacados de todos los tiempos.

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Gabrielle Chanel dijo que quer\u00eda ser copiada; Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga hizo todo lo posible para evitar que le copiasen. Gabrielle Chanel se invent\u00f3 su biograf\u00eda; Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga nunca ocult\u00f3 sus or\u00edgenes. Las diferencias entre ambos son notables, pero algo les un\u00eda por encima de todo: el talento y la genialidad. Coincidiendo con el estreno en Disney+ de la miniserie que narra la vida del prestigioso modista vasco (enero de 2024), reproducimos un extracto del libro \u00abEl enigma Balenciaga\u00bb (Plaza &amp; Jan\u00e9s), un texto en el que la autora de la obra, la periodista Mar\u00eda Fern\u00e1ndez-Miranda, recrea el momento en que se conocieron -en 1917, en el Gran Casino de San Sebasti\u00e1n, entre humo y timbas- dos de los dise\u00f1adores de moda m\u00e1s destacados de todos los 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mundo lleva tres a\u00f1os sumido en un sangriento conflicto b\u00e9lico, pero entre la burgues\u00eda y la aristocracia de San Sebasti\u00e1n nadie parece querer darse cuenta de ello: las tertulias de los caf\u00e9s y las carreras del hip\u00f3dromo est\u00e1n rebosantes de vida. 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Hay una modista que le tiene especialmente obsesionado: se llama <span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Coco_Chanel\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Gabrielle Chanel<\/a><\/span>, se la conoce con el apodo de Coco y dicen que, gracias a ella, las mujeres de la <em>c\u00f4te basque<\/em> se dejan ver por los paseos mar\u00edtimos libres de cors\u00e9 e ins\u00f3litamente ataviadas con chaquetas de punto y blusas de marinero.\u00a0<\/p><p>Estamos en la puerta del Gran Casino de San Sebasti\u00e1n, justo en la fachada que da a los jardines de Alderdi Eder \u2014y, tras ellos, a la bah\u00eda de la Concha\u2014, durante una pl\u00e1cida noche de finales de septiembre en la que el verano se resiste a abandonar la ciudad. 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Pues resulta que a sus o\u00eddos ha llegado el rumor de que Chanel, que lleva varias semanas presentando su \u00faltima colecci\u00f3n en el lujoso Hotel Mar\u00eda Cristina, acude cada noche al establecimiento de juego para probar suerte al bacarr\u00e1 acompa\u00f1ada por su inseparable hermana peque\u00f1a, Antoinette. Y\u00a0Crist\u00f3bal, para qu\u00e9 negarlo, se muere de ganas de conocer a esa mujer que hoy tiene treinta y cuatro a\u00f1os y que empez\u00f3 en el oficio a los veintisiete confeccionando sombreros gracias \u2014seg\u00fan cuentan las malas lenguas\u2014 al apoyo financiero de su amante, un caballero ingl\u00e9s jugador de polo que responde al nombre de Boy Capel. \u00abPensaba que te daba un juguete y te he dado la libertad\u00bb, dicen que le dijo Boy a Coco al asistir al despegue del atelier parisino de la rue Cambon, al que han seguido las aperturas de las tiendas de Deauville y Biarritz, donde Gabrielle vende ahora vestidos a tres mil francos. Dicen, tambi\u00e9n, que entre todos sus locales esta costurera audaz tiene hoy contratadas a casi trescientas trabajadoras. \u00a1Una mujer, empresaria de \u00e9xito! <o:p><\/o:p><\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\">S\u00ed, Crist\u00f3bal se muere de ganas de conocer a Mademoiselle, la <em>couturi\u00e8re<\/em> que ha plantado cara a la rigidez de las siluetas de los grandes nombres de la alta costura parisina: Worth, Paquin, Doucet\u2026 De modo que entra en el casino con paso decidido, cruzando por delante de la orquesta que toca en la terraza como si el mundo fuera un lugar libre de desgracia. Deja atr\u00e1s el caf\u00e9 y los billares, y sube la majestuosa escalera de m\u00e1rmol blanco, alumbrada por una ristra de farolas de bronce. 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esas est\u00e1 cuando Coco se levanta. La dise\u00f1adora cruza el sal\u00f3n dando zancadas, justo en la direcci\u00f3n en la que Crist\u00f3bal permanece parado, con su sombrero entre las manos. Igual que un d\u00eda tuvo el arrojo de pedirle a la marquesa de Casa Torres que le dejara copiar su vestido comprado en Par\u00eds, hoy re\u00fane el valor suficiente para interpelar a Gabrielle, la m\u00e1s revolucionaria entre los nuevos nombres de la costura y tambi\u00e9n \u2014seg\u00fan le han contado\u2014 una de las m\u00e1s malhumoradas. Le habla en su torpe pero apto franc\u00e9s.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014\u00bfMademoiselle Chanel?\u00a0<\/p><p>Ella se detiene y le mira de frente, dirigiendo hacia \u00e9l su nariz recta y su barbilla altiva. Sus ojos son negros y chispeantes, y tiene los p\u00f3mulos marcados. Es guapa sin estridencias, pero sobre todo es carism\u00e1tica.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014S\u00ed, soy yo, \u00bfqu\u00e9 desea?\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Me llamo Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga, perm\u00edtame que le exprese la admiraci\u00f3n que siento por su moda.\u00a0<\/p><p>Gabrielle le corrige, enarcando las cejas con fastidio:<\/p><p>\u2014Ah, no, no, monsieur. Los dem\u00e1s siguen una moda, yo creo un estilo. La moda est\u00e1 dise\u00f1ada para que la maten. Por Dios, \u00a1si la moda es la \u00fanica cosa que envejece m\u00e1s r\u00e1pido que las mujeres! Mis creaciones, sin embargo, permanecer\u00e1n cuando yo ya no est\u00e9 aqu\u00ed, no tenga ninguna duda de ello.\u00a0<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"o78itqq\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>Chanel viste como le da la gana porque no teme a nada ni a nadie, est\u00e1 habituada a codearse con los personajes m\u00e1s rompedores de la esfera cultural parisina; hace solo unos meses que ha entablado amistad con Pablo Picasso, su<em> alter ego<\/em> en el mundo de la pintura.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#000000\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"40\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"24\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Vollkorn\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"45\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"30\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"95\",\"bottom\":\"58\",\"left\":\"95\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"30\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"30\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"0b553e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p>\u00c9l sonr\u00ede con timidez y asiente ante la perorata de su interlocutora. Carraspea.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Ver\u00e1, acabo de abrir mi propia casa en San Sebasti\u00e1n. Tengo previsto presentar mi primera colecci\u00f3n el a\u00f1o que viene y\u2026\u00a0<\/p><p>Chanel no le deja terminar la frase.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Pues le deseo suerte y, sobre todo, ambici\u00f3n. F\u00edjese: ambici\u00f3n es una palabra que no temo emplear y usted tampoco deber\u00eda huir de ella.\u00a0<\/p><p>Crist\u00f3bal trata de retomar su discurso. Quiere impresionarla.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Lo cierto es que me gustar\u00eda cambiar la visi\u00f3n de las cosas, igual que ha hecho usted al eliminar\u2026 digamos las tonter\u00edas de la ropa de la mujer. Si me permite que le confiese un secreto, no hay nada que me moleste m\u00e1s que lo cursi.<em>\u00a0<\/em><\/p><p>Ahora Chanel relaja el gesto, dispuesta a bromear.\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Le comprendo. Una mujer elegante tiene que poder ir a la compra sin dar risa a las amas de casa. Ya se sabe que el que r\u00ede siempre tiene raz\u00f3n, \u00bfno es as\u00ed?\u00a0<\/p><p>A continuaci\u00f3n se pone seria de nuevo, hace una pausa un tanto melodram\u00e1tica, mira a lo lejos \u2014como si tuviera a un gran auditorio pendiente de sus palabras\u2014 y vuelve a hablar:\u00a0<\/p><p>\u2014Verdaderamente pienso que un vestido que no resulta c\u00f3modo es un fracaso. Un vestido no es un vendaje. Est\u00e1 hecho para ser llevado. Se lleva con los hombros. Un vestido tiene que colgarse de los hombros, eso es<i>.<\/i>\u00a0\u2014Le da un toquecito en el brazo, como para dar la conversaci\u00f3n por finalizada\u2014. Espero que volvamos a vernos, monsieur.\u00a0<\/p><p>Gabrielle contin\u00faa su camino y Crist\u00f3bal la sigue con la mirada, detectando un detalle en el que no hab\u00eda ca\u00eddo antes: su vestido tiene bolsillos. La modista, que es m\u00e1s bien peque\u00f1a de estatura, mete las manos en ellos con indiferencia, en un gesto muy masculino. All\u00e1 va una mujer imparable escapando de su sino de ni\u00f1a pobre abandonada en un convento. Y quien la mira tambi\u00e9n est\u00e1 en proceso de burlar lo que el destino hab\u00eda deparado para \u00e9l, pues definitivamente ya nunca patronear\u00e1 un barco como su padre ni tampoco abrazar\u00e1 el sacerdocio como su t\u00edo, pero en cambio est\u00e1 casi listo para entrar en el olimpo de los dioses de la moda.<\/p>\",\"section_style\":\"\",\"align\":\"\",\"align_tablet\":\"\",\"align_mobile\":\"\",\"text_color\":\"#1a1a1a\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"18\"},\"typography_font_size_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_font_family\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family_custom\":\"Fort-Book\",\"typography_font_weight\":\"\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"\",\"typography_font_style\":\"\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"27\"},\"typography_line_height_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"typography_letter_spacing_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":\"\"},\"_section_style\":\"\",\"_margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"40\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"_margin_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_animation\":\"\",\"animation_duration\":\"\",\"_css_classes\":\"\",\"_section_background\":\"\",\"_background_background\":\"\",\"_background_color\":\"\",\"_background_image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_background_position\":\"\",\"_background_attachment\":\"\",\"_background_repeat\":\"\",\"_background_size\":\"\",\"_background_video_link\":\"\",\"_background_video_fallback\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"_border_border\":\"\",\"_border_width\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_border_color\":\"\",\"_border_radius\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"\",\"right\":\"\",\"bottom\":\"\",\"left\":\"\",\"isLinked\":true},\"_box_shadow_box_shadow_type\":\"\",\"_box_shadow_box_shadow\":{\"horizontal\":0,\"vertical\":0,\"blur\":10,\"spread\":0,\"inset\":\"\",\"color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0.5)\"},\"_section_responsive\":\"\",\"responsive_description\":\"\",\"hide_desktop\":\"\",\"hide_tablet\":\"\",\"hide_mobile\":\"\"},\"defaultEditSettings\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\",\"editSettings\":{}},{\"id\":\"gmoytvg\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"isInner\":false,\"settings\":{\"section_editor\":\"\",\"editor\":\"<p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\"><strong>OTROS\u00a0CONTENIDOS DE INTER\u00c9S:<\/strong><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/felisa-pinto-pablo-picasso\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Felisa Pinto: el d\u00eda que conoc\u00ed a Picasso<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/literatura\/lucia-berlin-sara-mesa-una-nueva-vida\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Lucia Berlin por Sara Mesa: todos esos nombres, todas esas vidas<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/comic\/las-mil-y-una-vidas-de-josephine-baker\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Criada, esp\u00eda, activista y leyenda: las mil y una vidas de Josephine Baker<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/comic\/ilu-ros-federico-garcia-lorca\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Lorca por Ilu Ros: el a\u00f1o que hizo Federico<\/a><\/span><\/p><p><span style=\\\"text-decoration: underline;\\\"><a href=\\\"https:\/\/www.penguinlibros.com\/es\/revista-lengua\/no-ficcion\/cuando-valerie-solanas-disparo-a-andy-warhol\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\" rel=\\\"noopener\\\">Valerie Solanas y Andy Warhol: cronolog\u00eda de un intento de 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10 minutos
La diseñadora francesa Coco Chanel en una imagen de los años 50. Crédito: Getty Images.

La diseñadora francesa Coco Chanel en una imagen de los años 50. Crédito: Getty Images.

El mundo lleva tres años sumido en un sangriento conflicto bélico, pero entre la burguesía y la aristocracia de San Sebastián nadie parece querer darse cuenta de ello: las tertulias de los cafés y las carreras del hipódromo están rebosantes de vida. Ese ambiente de carpe diem auspiciado por la neutralidad de España ante la Primera Guerra Mundial es el que se encuentra Cristóbal Balenciaga a su regreso a la ciudad, tras haber pasado un tiempo trabajando en una sastrería de Burdeos. Este chico de veintidós años tiene poco que ver con el niño que acompañaba a su madre a hacer recados por las calles de Guetaria; ahora entiende el idioma francés y también entiende las tripas de la alta costura. De sus viajes a París se ha traído algunos modelos de los diseñadores a los que admira para deshacerlos de arriba abajo y así poder analizarlos en detalle, igual que el entomólogo disecciona los insectos bajo su lupa. Hay una modista que le tiene especialmente obsesionado: se llama Gabrielle Chanel, se la conoce con el apodo de Coco y dicen que, gracias a ella, las mujeres de la côte basque se dejan ver por los paseos marítimos libres de corsé e insólitamente ataviadas con chaquetas de punto y blusas de marinero. 

Estamos en la puerta del Gran Casino de San Sebastián, justo en la fachada que da a los jardines de Alderdi Eder —y, tras ellos, a la bahía de la Concha—, durante una plácida noche de finales de septiembre en la que el verano se resiste a abandonar la ciudad. El joven Cristóbal lleva el pelo repeinado hacia atrás y viste blazer, zapatos bicolor y un elegante sombrero. Es un hombre de 1,80 metros de estatura, atractivo y prometedor, que acaba de abrir su primera casa de costura en la ciudad, en el número 2 de la calle Vergara, bajo la sencilla denominación C. Balenciaga. Su hermana Agustina le ha ayudado a buscar empleados y, ante cada uno de ellos, él se ha mostrado firme, confiado en su propio talento. 

—Dame un cuerpo imperfecto y lo haré perfecto —les repite como un mantra. 

Y suele añadir, con determinación: 

—Una mujer no tiene la necesidad de ser bella para llevar mis vestidos: el vestido lo hará por ella.

¿Pero qué ha venido a hacer al casino a estas horas, siendo él tan serio y responsable, tan comprometido con su trabajo? Pues resulta que a sus oídos ha llegado el rumor de que Chanel, que lleva varias semanas presentando su última colección en el lujoso Hotel María Cristina, acude cada noche al establecimiento de juego para probar suerte al bacarrá acompañada por su inseparable hermana pequeña, Antoinette. Y Cristóbal, para qué negarlo, se muere de ganas de conocer a esa mujer que hoy tiene treinta y cuatro años y que empezó en el oficio a los veintisiete confeccionando sombreros gracias —según cuentan las malas lenguas— al apoyo financiero de su amante, un caballero inglés jugador de polo que responde al nombre de Boy Capel. «Pensaba que te daba un juguete y te he dado la libertad», dicen que le dijo Boy a Coco al asistir al despegue del atelier parisino de la rue Cambon, al que han seguido las aperturas de las tiendas de Deauville y Biarritz, donde Gabrielle vende ahora vestidos a tres mil francos. Dicen, también, que entre todos sus locales esta costurera audaz tiene hoy contratadas a casi trescientas trabajadoras. ¡Una mujer, empresaria de éxito!

Sí, Cristóbal se muere de ganas de conocer a Mademoiselle, la couturière que ha plantado cara a la rigidez de las siluetas de los grandes nombres de la alta costura parisina: Worth, Paquin, Doucet… De modo que entra en el casino con paso decidido, cruzando por delante de la orquesta que toca en la terraza como si el mundo fuera un lugar libre de desgracia. Deja atrás el café y los billares, y sube la majestuosa escalera de mármol blanco, alumbrada por una ristra de farolas de bronce. En el piso superior se localizan los salones de juego, que están vetados a los donostiarras y son territorio exclusivo de los foráneos, pero Balenciaga, acostumbrado ya a no rendirse fácilmente, ha recurrido a la intercesión de un amigo jesuita bien conectado para que el director del casino le permita acceder. El religioso le ha hecho ese favor no sin antes advertirle de que tenga cuidado con Coco Chanel, cuyos hábitos —le susurra al oído— parecen alentados por el mismo demonio…

Conocemos su obra, no a él (hasta ahora)

El caso es que Cristóbal logra pasar sin problema a los salones de juego. Deambula entre las risotadas de un grupo de jugadores extranjeros que celebran un golpe de buena suerte. Y entonces la ve. Allí, a lo lejos, con las cartas en una mano y el cigarrillo en la otra, una mujer diferente a todas. Para empezar, su peinado es escandaloso: lleva el pelo oscuro cortado al estilo garçonne, igual que la irreverente escritora Colette. Su piel está bronceada, como si quisiera imitar a las campesinas más humildes en vez de a esas aristócratas tan preocupadas por preservar la blancura de su tez. Por si eso fuera poco, el largo de su vestido deja los tobillos al aire, y su cintura apenas se adivina bajo la tela holgada. Sobre su pecho reposan varias vueltas de un larguísimo collar de perlas mezclado con algunas piezas que parecen de bisutería. Ella viste como le da la gana porque no teme a nada ni a nadie, está habituada a codearse con los personajes más rompedores de la esfera cultural parisina; hace solo unos meses que ha entablado amistad con Pablo Picasso, su alter ego en el mundo de la pintura a decir del poeta Jean Cocteau. 

¿Se atreverá Cristóbal a hablar con ella? ¿Se atreverá a iniciar una conversación con la temible Mademoiselle?

¿Y por qué no? ¿Acaso no es él también, a pesar de su juventud, un modista que empieza a cosechar éxitos al alcance de muy pocos, acaso no ha sido llamado al Palacio de Miramar para probarle una de sus creaciones a la mismísima reina María Cristina? ¿Por qué habría de amilanarse?

Cristóbal Balenciaga en una fotografía de 1952. Crédito: Getty Images.

Cristóbal Balenciaga en una fotografía de 1952. Crédito: Getty Images.

En esas está cuando Coco se levanta. La diseñadora cruza el salón dando zancadas, justo en la dirección en la que Cristóbal permanece parado, con su sombrero entre las manos. Igual que un día tuvo el arrojo de pedirle a la marquesa de Casa Torres que le dejara copiar su vestido comprado en París, hoy reúne el valor suficiente para interpelar a Gabrielle, la más revolucionaria entre los nuevos nombres de la costura y también —según le han contado— una de las más malhumoradas. Le habla en su torpe pero apto francés. 

—¿Mademoiselle Chanel? 

Ella se detiene y le mira de frente, dirigiendo hacia él su nariz recta y su barbilla altiva. Sus ojos son negros y chispeantes, y tiene los pómulos marcados. Es guapa sin estridencias, pero sobre todo es carismática. 

—Sí, soy yo, ¿qué desea? 

—Me llamo Cristóbal Balenciaga, permítame que le exprese la admiración que siento por su moda. 

Gabrielle le corrige, enarcando las cejas con fastidio:

—Ah, no, no, monsieur. Los demás siguen una moda, yo creo un estilo. La moda está diseñada para que la maten. Por Dios, ¡si la moda es la única cosa que envejece más rápido que las mujeres! Mis creaciones, sin embargo, permanecerán cuando yo ya no esté aquí, no tenga ninguna duda de ello. 

Chanel viste como le da la gana porque no teme a nada ni a nadie, está habituada a codearse con los personajes más rompedores de la esfera cultural parisina; hace solo unos meses que ha entablado amistad con Pablo Picasso, su alter ego en el mundo de la pintura.

Él sonríe con timidez y asiente ante la perorata de su interlocutora. Carraspea. 

—Verá, acabo de abrir mi propia casa en San Sebastián. Tengo previsto presentar mi primera colección el año que viene y… 

Chanel no le deja terminar la frase. 

—Pues le deseo suerte y, sobre todo, ambición. Fíjese: ambición es una palabra que no temo emplear y usted tampoco debería huir de ella. 

Cristóbal trata de retomar su discurso. Quiere impresionarla. 

—Lo cierto es que me gustaría cambiar la visión de las cosas, igual que ha hecho usted al eliminar… digamos las tonterías de la ropa de la mujer. Si me permite que le confiese un secreto, no hay nada que me moleste más que lo cursi. 

Ahora Chanel relaja el gesto, dispuesta a bromear. 

—Le comprendo. Una mujer elegante tiene que poder ir a la compra sin dar risa a las amas de casa. Ya se sabe que el que ríe siempre tiene razón, ¿no es así? 

A continuación se pone seria de nuevo, hace una pausa un tanto melodramática, mira a lo lejos —como si tuviera a un gran auditorio pendiente de sus palabras— y vuelve a hablar: 

—Verdaderamente pienso que un vestido que no resulta cómodo es un fracaso. Un vestido no es un vendaje. Está hecho para ser llevado. Se lleva con los hombros. Un vestido tiene que colgarse de los hombros, eso es. —Le da un toquecito en el brazo, como para dar la conversación por finalizada—. Espero que volvamos a vernos, monsieur. 

Gabrielle continúa su camino y Cristóbal la sigue con la mirada, detectando un detalle en el que no había caído antes: su vestido tiene bolsillos. La modista, que es más bien pequeña de estatura, mete las manos en ellos con indiferencia, en un gesto muy masculino. Allá va una mujer imparable escapando de su sino de niña pobre abandonada en un convento. Y quien la mira también está en proceso de burlar lo que el destino había deparado para él, pues definitivamente ya nunca patroneará un barco como su padre ni tampoco abrazará el sacerdocio como su tío, pero en cambio está casi listo para entrar en el olimpo de los dioses de la moda.

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